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01-07-2010, 05:29 PM | #3 | ||||||
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Dave,
She looks real good to me. I would not do a thing to her. The checkering has not been worn off as most guns her age and overall just a wonderful example of a near 130 year old Parker. I have a lifter 10 with .802 bores and .030 constriction in each barrel as well. Mine is on a 2 frame so it is not as robust as yours. I shoot RST's or loads I have made from Sherman Bell's data. I shoot black powder every now and then just to frighten the woman folk. A great find! Harry |
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01-07-2010, 06:13 PM | #4 | ||||||
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Looks pretty good to me Dave. I'd have the locks out to inspect/clean/lube them. Doesn't look like it's been apart a lot and the locks still fit into the receiver tightly. If the internals are in good shape you can just soak the lock assemblies clean, tighten up any loose screws and lube them up and put them back in. Is that oil staining on and behind the wrist? I'd pull the firing pins also as they seem to get really rusty if the gun hasn't been apart in 90 yrs, as seems to be the case with most of them. You'll like the fishtail lever so you can open the gun when the right hammer is back.
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01-07-2010, 09:11 PM | #5 | ||||||
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Give it a good cleaning and check the head of the stock for oil saturation. The wood looks dark. If you are going to shoot it much you may want to get that oil out to avoid splitting the wood.
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01-07-2010, 10:58 PM | #6 | ||||||
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The oil concerns me, the head of the stock is marinated in oil. You can can see how its drained down the grip and even into the comb. I have had good luck on other guns using the acetone soak.
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01-08-2010, 02:46 AM | #7 | ||||||
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From the looks of it you'll be wanting to do that acetone soak.
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01-08-2010, 06:55 AM | #8 | ||||||
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Generally speaking, the oil soaking will follow the grain. I may be mistaken but yours looks more like something spilled or splashed on there and simply ran downhill onto the comb. I do, however, agree with your assessment of the oil soaking in the head of the stock.
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01-08-2010, 08:54 AM | #9 | ||||||
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The soaking and staining look like many years of good old 3.in1 oil, great for metal but death on wood. The oil soaking will be even heavier in the middle of the wood. Shooting will certianly split the soft wood.
Acetone will only penetrate the near surface oil but won't pull out the center oil which is the heaviest. We use a high temp.,high pressure acid based process. It removes 100% of the oil and black staining. The compressed wood returns to its original dimensions and hardness. It allows for perfect repairs and refinishing with no trace of the oil damage. Solvents and bleach are only a temp. fix, the oil will keep finding its way to the surface. If you can locate a local antique refinisher, that uses a hot dip tank, they may be able to help you. You need to lose the oil before atempting any type of refinishing. |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Brad Bachelder For Your Post: |
01-08-2010, 09:30 AM | #10 | ||||||
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I have had success using oven cleaner. The lye in the spray really draws out the oil. Keep spraying on affected areas until the brown stuff stops running. A soft brush will help. Rinse off with [U]cold[U] water and allow to dry thoroughly.
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