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Unread 03-30-2010, 12:39 AM   #11
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Chuck Heald
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The easiest way I can think of is to put a block of known dimension on the forend iron that is slightly higher than the sides of the barrel channel and sets flat on the forend iron. Then measure with some calipers over the block and forend assembly to the surface of the deeley latch. Do the same thing on the splinter forend at the same exact location.
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Unread 03-30-2010, 01:05 AM   #12
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Joe Bernfeld
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Good ideas, Dean and Chuck! I'll try them for sure on Thurs. (if someone doesn't beat me to it) and let you know.
Joe
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Unread 03-30-2010, 08:49 AM   #13
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Joe, Thanks much for even considering any of this.

I just thought of another method that should be simple if you have a 6" dial, vernier, or digital caliper. Take the assembled gun, with barrels and forend together, measure over the rib to the latch at the most forward point and most aft point.
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Unread 04-01-2010, 01:19 PM   #14
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Here ya go, Chuck. Bear in mind that I am comparing 12 and 20 ga splinter forends against a 28 ga beavertail. Both the 12 and 20 ga splinter forends' metal measured the same: 0.75" thick at the rear screw, by 0.60" thick at the front screw. The beavertail was also 0.75" thick at the rear screw, however it was 0.8" thick at the front screw, and the wood carries this extra thickness to the end. You can see in the first pic that the BT metal has a raised section around the front screw. In the second pic I tried to show them side by side () in the same picture so you could see the extra height at the end of the BT. I hope these help you.
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Unread 04-02-2010, 04:12 AM   #15
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Chuck Heald
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Joe,
Outstanding effort and pics! Even though the metal is thicker at the iron's tip, the .200" difference and the last picture verify that there is indeed a difference in the depth of the latch at the front. Just as I had thought, I'd have to modify the latch and use a longer screw to get the depth of the latch right with a BTFE wood of correct profile.

Many thanks Joe.
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Unread 04-02-2010, 05:52 AM   #16
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Dean Romig
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I think I would still hold out for the Repro with two sets of same gauge barrels and both styles of forend to take measurements from before starting any work on a second forend of a different style. JMHO
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Unread 04-03-2010, 08:45 PM   #17
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Chuck,

If you still want a side by side photo of the 28 splinter and beavertail I can take them for you. I have both here. Just let me know exactly what angle you are wanting to see.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 01:44 PM   #18
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I am not a gunsmith by any means, but I fitted a blank beavertail to my splinter forend as a winter project. Yes the splinter hardware IS a bit thinner but the BT can be thinnned as well and fitted and bedded before checkering.
Steve Kleist Ely, MN
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Unread 04-06-2010, 12:50 AM   #19
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Steve,
Are you saying you had a machined blank forend?

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Chuck
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Unread 04-06-2010, 08:18 AM   #20
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Chuck,
Yes, I did get a machined forend, actually two of them. Neither was a perfect fit, but close. One came from ebay, the other from a friend. I had to make both a little thinner, possibly 1/8 inch but it was not a big job. Again, I am NOT a gunsmith.
It may have been my workmanship but one cracked while hunting shooting heavy loads, and I repaired it. The other is holding up so far, and I do shoot a little.
If you want to see a photo of them, send me your home email address via Parker Personal message. I cannot seem to resize the photos to post them here.
Steve Kleist
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