Hinge Pin Screw Head Indexing

[Pahkuh]

Gentlemen,

Assuming that the proper tools are used, what is the proper procedure for indexing the hinge pin screw? I have one on my GH 20 that when tight has a slot position of approximately 8 instead of 9 o'clock. No big deal functionally, just one of those things that bug me and it seems like something I should be able to correct myself, with a little guidance.

[Bruce Day]

Maybe ask the person from whom you bought the gun? Not many know as much about Parkers as he does.

[winplumber]

Hmmm !

[Harry Collins]

Steve,

I have the same problem with a DH 10 gauge except my hinge pin was about 10 o'clock rather than 9. I think Austin had one that he was able to tighten with a screw driver made to fit the whole slot chucked into a drill press. Don't do this until it is confirmed by others. The hing pin is pressed into the frame and I would think it would have to be pressed out and reinserted to get the screw to index. Don't tell the rest of the guy's here but, I took the hing pin screw out of my DH and shimmed it with enough brass sheeting to make it index.

Harry

[Richard Flanders]

I think Harry has the right idea. Thin copper sheeting would work well I would think and would act like a crush washer in other applications and allow some latitude for indexing and would hold the screw head in place well. I've always thought the same thing could be done to floor plate screws out of time. I think that thin copper sheeting or even aluminum foil 'washers' could be made with a leather punch and added under screw heads as needed to get them indexed.

[Dean Romig]

The possibility however, of relatively fast ocurring corrosion would concern me if using aluminum or copper in contact with a dissimilar metal (steel).

[Pahkuh]

Thanks to all for their input. I believe the shimming idea is a sound solution especially in situations where the screw is indexed somewhere between the 9 and 12 o'clock positions. However, I think steel shim stock, cut into washers, would be the best material to use since it can be aquired in various thicknesses and, being a similar metal, would not likely promote corrosion.

As I wrote in my original post, in my situation the screw is just short (approximately 30 degrees) of being correctly indexed. Adding enough shimming material under the screw head to bring it to the 9 o'clock position would, if my math is correct and assuming the screw has approximately 32 TPI, require about .026 of shim material. That just seems to me to be too much shimming.

Another option ... If approximately .005" of material was removed from the underside of the screw head the same results would likely be achieved. I fully realize that removing any metal on a gun had better be well thought out in advance, but this solution seems so simple and innocuous.

I'm looking forward to your thoughts.

[10ga Hammer]

Larry, Check your PM.

[Old and Reliable]

[quote=Dean Romig;15825]The possibility however, of relatively fast ocurring corrosion would concern me if using aluminum or copper in contact with a dissimilar metal (steel).

Interesting! Aluminum foil or sheet copper should have no problem with contact with any of the carbon range steels used by Parker Bros.

[Autumn Daze]

Francis,The screw shoulders all the way to the hinge pin and the threads are very deep already.The proper way to index the screw without removing the hinge pin would be to remove a few thousands at a time from the back side of the screw head. You will be suprised at how much the screw will move with only a few thousands removed. Go slow...a little at a time...checking constantly....