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12-05-2014, 09:06 AM | #3 | ||||||
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Maybe just using plumbers Teflon tape to increase size of the threads, pending the length & size of threads.
Rufus |
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12-05-2014, 09:16 AM | #4 | ||||||
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Tom,
All the trigger guard screws I've played with would need a full turn to orient correctly due to the irregular shape of the top surface from its original fitting. If the alignment were only slightly off you could make a washer/shim from thin gauge shim stock for under the screw head or add/weld material under the head and refit. |
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12-05-2014, 12:34 PM | #5 | ||||||
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Here is where I get lost, if the screw requires a full or almost full turn due to head configuration, how do you handle that without washers ?
If the trigger guard is against the wood, and the screw head is against the trigger guard tight yet an almost full turn will draw that screw down quite far. It does seem you would almost have to re inlet the guard, but that only helps the first screw you would still have one to go. I'm not trying to be a pest, just trying to learn to do it right. If you take apart a nice factory gun all lined up your probrably not going to find washers, so there must be a simple way. Thanks for all the replys, Tom |
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12-05-2014, 01:04 PM | #6 | ||||||
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The fact of the matter is that the screws were all fitted individually when new at the factory with screws that had high heads and were then dressed down after the slot was timed. So, if you are re installing the same screw in a replacement stock, it may not line up perfectly or it may take some trial and error to get there.
The position of the screw when you start threading it in and even the angle of the new hole can effect now the head of the screw seats. You may need to plug, re-drill and try again if it is not working out for you. Or fit a new screw.
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B. Dudley |
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12-05-2014, 01:11 PM | #7 | ||||||
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Tom,
You can't go a full turn, the point there is that the screws usually only sit flush with the metal in one orientation as that is how they were originally regulated. You said your screws were only off a half a degree which I would guess is not quite accurate as most people could not see one half degree. The point is a thin spacer under the screw head could be a quick, cosmetic fix for a minor adjustment where as adding material to the under side of the screw head via welding and reregulating would be a more appropriate, permanent fix. Thanks Brian, Clear and to the point. |
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12-05-2014, 03:39 PM | #8 | ||||||
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Ok thanks guys
I learnt something today. Tom |
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12-06-2014, 04:40 PM | #9 | |||||||
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Quote:
Sometimes a layer or two of masking tape under the trigger guard is enough to raise it up to get a tight screw, and then compress it down till the screw is north south, |
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12-06-2014, 06:00 PM | #10 | ||||||
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Thanks
I do like the masking tape idea, next time this comes up I'm going to give that a shot. Tom |
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