Lengthen chambers to 2 3/4" ??

[George Neal]

I'm interested in advice on the advisability of lengthening the chambers on a Parker 12 and a Parker 20 from 2 1/2" to 2 3/4". The 12 is a well worn DHE #1 frame and the 20 is a VH #0 frame. Both were manufactured in the 1920's and are in sound condition. Neither are high condition, and other than being sound Parkers have no special collectors value. It would be NICE the use low velocity 2 3/4" ammo that is readily available rather than being limited to the 2 1/2".
If this is feasible I'd appreciate suggestions on a competent source of having the work performed.
I welcome your suggestions.

[mobirdhunter]

Originally Posted by George Neal

I'm interested in advice on the advisability of lengthening the chambers on a Parker 12 and a Parker 20 from 2 1/2" to 2 3/4". The 12 is a well worn DHE #1 frame and the 20 is a VH #0 frame. Both were manufactured in the 1920's and are in sound condition. Neither are high condition, and other than being sound Parkers have no special collectors value. It would be NICE the use low velocity 2 3/4" ammo that is readily available rather than being limited to the 2 1/2".
If this is feasible I'd appreciate suggestions on a competent source of having the work performed.
I welcome your suggestions.

George, If you have not done so already, it is always good to have a gunsmith who knows Parkers examine your guns. By the 1920's (and even earlier) some 12 gauge Parkers had chambers intended for 2 3/4" shells (even though the chambers were slightly shorter). Although ammo is somewhat scarce right now, you can find good offerings for shorter chambered guns, and in some cases, assuming the barrels are sound, off-the-shelf lighter loads have served many shooters well with their Parkers. Also remember that the wood on your Parkers, if original, is old, and that excessive recoil can irreparably damage an old stock.

My opinion is just that, an opinion, and opinions are worth what you pay for them. I have come to the conclusion that the careful approach is the best.

There is one fact, however, and not original to me, and that is: once you take the metal away, it cannot be put back. Regret is a strong and long lasting emotion.

I'm sure you'll hear from others on this. Good luck with your decision.

[Dean Romig]

I would certainly shy away from lengthening chambers on guns that were built on the lightest of frame sizes, for the gauge, like your 1-frame 12 as that often translates to wall thickness at critical points being at, or about at, their safe minimum thickness. You can get low pressure loads pretty much off the shelf when ammo supplies are good. Loading your own is possibly the best choice for a lot of us who prefer lighter loads when we can’t depend on retail suppliers to have them when we need them.





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[Randy Roberts]

Hi George:

How many rounds are you going to run these guns annually ? Point being if it is only a flat or 2 the juice may not be worth the squeeze. Just buy the ammo they were intended to digest. Personally I am not in favor of removing metal. Not to sound condescending but are you certain of the present chamber length ? I ask as it is possible they are 2 5/8 which would be for 2 3/4 shells.

[Researcher]

My 1930 vintage VH-Grade 0-frame 20-gauge has the 2 3/8 inch chambers intended for the 2 1/2 inch 20-gauge shells. Our ammunition manufacturers offered the 2 1/2 inch 20-gauge shells up to WW-II. For most of the manufacturers, the heaviest load they offered in the 2 1/2 inch 20-gauge shells was the 2 1/4 drams equiv. 7/8 ounce load. However, Winchester managed to stuff the 2 3/4 dram equiv. 1 ounce, progressive burning powder, load into the 2 1/2 inch shell, while all the other ammo makers only offered it in 2 3/4 inch or longer shells.

Super-Speed 2 1-2 inch 20-gauge.jpg

Super-Speed 2 3-4 inch 20-gauge.jpg

[Kevin McCormack]

Ditto and agree with Gary, Randy, Dean, and Dave. At Hausmann's last weekend, dual PGCA/AHFCA member Jim Guild displayed a set of (formerly) great 16 ga. Philadelphia Fox 28" IC/M barrels that were severely bulged in the right barrel just forward of the chamber forcing cone. His cautionary ("Not For Sale') tag simply stated, "Should have used RSTs".

[George Neal]

Thanks to all of you for your comments!

[Drew Hause]

More information here
http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=28515

[Researcher]

Check out this thread as well --

http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=33477

[Andy]

I have a few questions and am not intending to hijack. Without having to pull out TPS, why were 2 5/8" chambers made for 2 3/4" shells? And while I use a brass gauge for chamber length from Ct. Shotgun, what is the most accurate way to measure it? If I see it land on "the lip" of chamber between 2 1/2" and 2 3/4" I just assume it's 2 5/8". We know what happens when we ASS U ME I've been told on here if they are Vulcan steel barrels and the gun is sound, low pressure 2 3/4" are fine and many people do.

EDIT: I read the other threads about fiber wads and paper shells and the chamber creating a better seal. So that's solved. The chamber length issue?