Parker Gun Collectors Association Forums  

Go Back   Parker Gun Collectors Association Forums Non-Parker Specific & General Discussions Shotgun Shell Reloading

Notices

Reply
Thread Tools Display Modes
another 10 bore hull question
Unread 08-28-2013, 10:23 PM   #1
Member
OH Osthaus
PGCA Lifetime
Member
 
Rick Losey's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,884
Thanks: 1,720
Thanked 8,380 Times in 3,310 Posts

Default another 10 bore hull question

the first set of roll crimped loads in the new Remington hulls went well, but quite a bit of a roll remains in the mouth of the hull after it has been fired.

When I load the wad (SP10) in a new hull, its a tight fit, when I try to get the wad into a once fired hull that had been roll crimped it won't go and tears the case.

Do you do something (like BPI's spin doctor) to recondition the hull's mouth?
__________________
"If there is a heaven it must have thinning aspen gold, and flighting woodcock, and a bird dog" GBE
Rick Losey is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-28-2013, 11:25 PM   #2
Member
charlie cleveland
Forum Associate

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 12,986
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7,803 Times in 3,968 Posts

Default

a spin doctor would work nice..the memory of this plastic is very good i too have the same problem you do..i take awad puncher and just roll it around the inner edge of the shell this usally lets the wad go in without much trouble.. i bet that spin doctor would solve both our problems... charlie
charlie cleveland is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to charlie cleveland For Your Post:
Unread 08-28-2013, 11:35 PM   #3
Member
StubTwist
PGCA Member
 
Frank Cronin's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 979
Thanks: 6,273
Thanked 1,608 Times in 484 Posts

Default

It happens to me when I fold crimp as well. Especially to new Federals that I cut down to 2 7/8". I condition the mouth of the hull before reloading to prevent the "wad snag"when reloading with a tool you describe. At one time I tried to skive the hull but that takes too much time, made a mess, and the plastic gets clogged in the cone bit. P.I.T.A...
Frank Cronin is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Frank Cronin For Your Post:
Unread 08-29-2013, 09:20 AM   #4
Member
J.B. Books
PGCA Member
 
Pete Lester's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,947
Thanks: 1,727
Thanked 5,065 Times in 1,429 Posts

Default

A spin doctor device is going to help greatly. In the interim if using a MEC single stage loader you can hold the hull by the brass placing just the mouth on the wide chrome part of the deprimer and wiggle the hull in wide circles while pushing the mouth of the hull against the deprimer to open it.
Pete Lester is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Pete Lester For Your Post:
Unread 08-29-2013, 12:04 PM   #5
Member
Paul Harm
Forum Associate

Member Info
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,774
Thanks: 44
Thanked 757 Times in 418 Posts

Default

I don't roll crimp plastic hulls for that reason - if I do, like 12ga, they get thrown away. Paper hulls are the ones that roll crimp nice and reload with no problems.
__________________
Paul Harm
Paul Harm is offline   Reply With Quote
Visit Paul Harm's homepage!
Unread 08-29-2013, 12:25 PM   #6
Member
Daryl Middlebrook
PGCA Lifetime
Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 66
Thanks: 0
Thanked 93 Times in 28 Posts

Default

When loading NEW 10,8 or 4 gauge hulls try this method.

After you have inserted the wad and added the shot, insert an over shot card. Then run a bead of glue around the perimeter of the card to glue it to the inside of the hull.---Forget any type of crimp at all !!!!!

I have found that this method eliminates any wad insertion problems ( during the next reload) and distress at the mouth of the hull. Thus the hulls last much longer and they are easier to reload next time.----It works for me.
Daryl Middlebrook
Daryl Middlebrook is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Daryl Middlebrook For Your Post:
Unread 08-29-2013, 12:51 PM   #7
Member
J.B. Books
PGCA Member
 
Pete Lester's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,947
Thanks: 1,727
Thanked 5,065 Times in 1,429 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl Middlebrook View Post
When loading NEW 10,8 or 4 gauge hulls try this method.

After you have inserted the wad and added the shot, insert an over shot card. Then run a bead of glue around the perimeter of the card to glue it to the inside of the hull.---Forget any type of crimp at all !!!!!

I have found that this method eliminates any wad insertion problems ( during the next reload) and distress at the mouth of the hull. Thus the hulls last much longer and they are easier to reload next time.----It works for me.
Daryl Middlebrook
Daryl there was an earlier post that included a chart showing significant increases in pressure from seeming subtle difference in the depth of a folded crimp. I have to wonder about the amount of resistance a bead of hot glue provides and if it is more or less than a traditional roll crimp and thus effecting pressure up or down?
Pete Lester is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-29-2013, 01:26 PM   #8
Member
OH Osthaus
PGCA Lifetime
Member
 
Rick Losey's Avatar

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 7,884
Thanks: 1,720
Thanked 8,380 Times in 3,310 Posts

Default

That was my thought Peter, the glue is material that must be moved to allow the wad to exit.

On the other hand it might even reduce pressure, and to my simple mind that could affect burn rate and velocity.
__________________
"If there is a heaven it must have thinning aspen gold, and flighting woodcock, and a bird dog" GBE
Rick Losey is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-29-2013, 04:12 PM   #9
Member
Daryl Middlebrook
PGCA Lifetime
Member

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 66
Thanks: 0
Thanked 93 Times in 28 Posts

Default

A good question. I have always used smokless powder for all of my reloads. I have read the Sherman Bell articles in DGJ. I use low pressure powders and generally tend to load lite for my Damascus guns.---Having said that, I never considered what various methods of closing the hole might have on pressures.

There are abundant recipes out there for 10ga. Finding recipes for 8 and 4 gauge loads (with pressures given) have proven to be a challenge.

I mostly use recipes that Tom Armbrust has published. However it is limited. Tom is a big bore specialist. He may have the info.----Daryl
Daryl Middlebrook is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08-29-2013, 11:14 PM   #10
Member
charlie cleveland
Forum Associate

Member Info
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 12,986
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7,803 Times in 3,968 Posts

Default

daryl i load some the way you do..one thing i have learned when useing hot glue gun a person needs to put some pressure on the top wad till the glue sets up..for i have found that with lite loads espically in the 8 ga that you will get some bloopers if the shells are allowed to stay on the shelf for a few days ..the reason i believe you get bloopers is that by putting no pressure on the top wad while glueing is that the wads will expand on their own thus not enough pressure on the top wad to set powder off good...this is my 2 cents worth...would love to load up a box of 4 ga and shoot them.... charlie
charlie cleveland is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:08 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 1998 - 2024, Parkerguns.org
Copyright © 2004 Design par Megatekno
- 2008 style update 3.7 avec l'autorisation de son auteur par Stradfred.