Recut checkering on Parker forend

[Dean Romig]

If that picture is an example of your own cutting of a mullered Parker border, I think it is about perfect!!

It's not too wide, it's just right. Bravo!

Here's an original unretouched Parker mullered border. Granted, it's a Grade 4 but the grade makes no difference with the mullered border.
There were several different people employed by Parker and Remington during the various periods of production. A few of them employed a more pedestrian interpretation of mullering while the more expert of them employed the wider concave mullering.







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[Chris Robenalt]

Cameron, I've never used a cradle or a concave cutter. I prefer holding and constantly turning my work as I checker. I use masking tape to lay out master lines. I freehand the muller border with a series of cutters and files. I prefer Dembart and Ullman. I've also made some of my cutters. I don't know if there's a right and a wrong way. I study other's work, if I like it, I'll try to duplicate their cuts. Depth of the cut is important. Your work is looking good! Take your time....

[Cameron Thraen]

For those interested, and following here are a couple of photos on my progress. The original border on this Parker is only +0.070 wide measured from thin outside border line to opposite border line. This is a 28 lpi pattern. The actual mullered border is even narrower.

This photo shows the worn smooth border on the left:


This photo shows my refurbished border on the right:


A few more lines to go. I need new eyes.

[Chris Robenalt]

Take your lines all the way to the border and back cut Cameron. It will make your checkering and borders really pop!

[Craig Budgeon]

I use an S-1 Dembart tool mounted so that the cutter cuts as it is pulled away from the borders and in very tight areas I use an metal engraving tool that is V-shaped to finish around the borders.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, Chris. Thanks. I have the DB S-1. Also set to cut on pull. I find it to be a cranky little bugger. I will look into the metal engraver tool. Any suggestion as to source ) vendor?

[Jim DiSpagno]

Dixie Gun Works had some nice ones at a fair price a while ago. Try them

[Cameron Thraen]

Parker mullered border progress. Center two short sections remain.

Left side, knuckle end. Original completely obliterated by wear.

[Keavin Nelson]

Cameron,
looking good, in areas where you have wood missing or a diamond breaks out, you can fix with a little acrylic gel and fine sawdust. I use a dental spatula (very small) to apply to the area. It drys quickly and you can recut the area.

[Cameron Thraen]

Keavin, thank you. As I am refurbishing and not redoing, as in sanding and replacing, your advice is very useful. Can you be more specific as to the acrylic gel? Are you referencing something along the lines of a glue? Or AcraGlas? Or something from the art world? Again, thanks.