Recut checkering on Parker forend

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, thanks. Based on my test piece I am going with the CA Special T. gap filling. Appears to work quite well. Stays in place, does not run and sets clear. I will post a pic when I set the sliver.

Sliver set.

[Mike McKinney]

It may not happen, but the problem I would have with using CA glue would be the possibility of staining the wood darker as it penetrates the pores of the wood. The walnut may be dense enough so you won’t notice.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, I wish to sincerely thank you for your time and advice on this repair. I would not have even known where to start without your help. I have a decent library by respected gunsmiths such as Roy Dunlap, J. Howe, Miller and McIntosh & Trevallion and none of these cover this type of repair in wood. In fact going through my library I am surprised to find how many pages are devoted to wood finishing and how few to actual repairs in wood.

Here are a few photos from my work. I am pleased with the result. In finishing the wood I will get the new piece to blend in and the mating line to disappear. As a note the CA Super T ultra gap filling adhesive works great. Does not run, requires only a very small amount and has a 60-90 second working time.

My working setup


Careful stock removal


Finished repair

[Dean Romig]

Impressive! Very well done.





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[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron, you did the work, you deserve the credit. Anyway, I didn't learn some of these tricks on my own, I was shown them by a cabinet maker a long long time ago.

[Cameron Thraen]

Continuing with my project. My checkering cradle. Cradle from MTB and mount system from RAM components. Solid with complete adjustability and movement. Spindle to hold forend copied from the one provided by Brian Dudley. Works great. I am currently practicing on an orphan forend.

For those interested in securing checkering tools this is what I have learned as I started out without a single checkering tool other than a couple of high quality rifflers. For checkering tools here is my experience. First, stay away from EBay for anything other than hard to find Dem-Bart NOS cutter bits. Sellers on Ebay and bidders must think these tools are scarce collector items. You will pay way too much. Second go to Jantz Knife Makers Supply in OK where you can purchase a Gunline Premier set for $150 or less. (Information learned from another PGCA member on this forum, thanks). They also sell individual GL handles at $8 ( Ebay sellers will ask and get upwards of $40 for a single handle). Dem-Bart cutters will fit the Gunline handles. Brownell's see thru checkering handle is no longer available however you can get the same tool from Ullman Precision Products. These are more expensive and the cutter is sold separately. Handle and one cutter will cost $100. High quality if you are thinking of working on many projects. Ullman cutters @ $45 come in 90 and 75 degree and four different lengths so you really need to know what you need before buying. Note, Wood Carvers Supply carries the Brownell type handle and cutters.

Should anyone have additional information to share I and I am certain others would welcome any and all advice and suggestions. My thoughts are aimed at those who, like myself, want a few tools to use to freshen-up existing checkering and perhaps give one complete checkering job a try to pass the winter hours. High end checkering tools for the professional with carbide cutters are readily available.





Practice and more practice...

[Cameron Thraen]

Finally after much thought and consulting of my wood finishing experts Flexner and Jewitt plus a lot of time experimenting with solvent based wood dye coloring I have achieved the best match I am able to produce for the walnut repair piece and the original Parker forend wood. My watercolor book, 600 Watercolors, by Sharon Finmark helped to get the right mix of yellow-red-brown to create the orange-brown color of the aged walnut. Next step is to begin the shellac finish application. And then on to what started this project... Recutting the checkering.

[Robert Brooks]

Cameron great info and i have found you can re sharpen Gunline and Brownell cutters easily with a knife edge file. Bobby

[Cameron Thraen]

Will you share more detail on doing this sharpening? Brand and size for knife edge file? How do you hold the cutter for sharpening? Other details for success? Thanks.

[Cameron Thraen]

I need some advice. As I make progress on my recutting of the checkering I have arrived at working on the mullered border. The first photo shows the original border with very little wear on the right. I have re-established the border on the left. The original border on the left consisted of a slight amount of original pattern in the form of lines and a slight border profile.

The second photo shows the tools I have for this work. The Dem-Bart cutters are 1) 2-28, 2) BC-N concave, 3) F1, and 4) 4-40 machine screw tool. And a curved blade knife.

As I continue along the checkering pattern I will be losing any pattern lines for the border as it has been completely erased by hand wear. This will make re-establishing the border more difficult.

I watched a YouTube video (MNR Custom, LLC) on this type of border and the fellow uses a 28 lpi cutter to establish the border lines for the mullered border (on a 22 lpi checkering pattern and not a Parker).

A couple of observations at this point.
1: the BC-N cutter is wide and aggressive so care is required to match the original border.
2: there are two lines, one on each side of the border, very thin. How are these cut? Which tool? (see #3)
3: I find that a 2-28 cutter will give me the required center line for the border. Is this a good means to center the border? (yes).
4: The BC-N is used to start the border and the 4-40 tool to finish the mullered border.