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#3 | ||||||
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You can use Iron pipe, PVC, or any solid material to sand the damaged area as long as the templates match
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Craig Budgeon For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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#5 | ||||||
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Firmly grip the forend before you begin sanding the diameter. Take your time, your going to get to look at your repair a lot longer than it took to make it.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Craig Budgeon For Your Post: |
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#6 | ||||||
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Picture a cylinder filling in the damaged area of the forend.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Craig Budgeon For Your Post: |
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#7 | ||||||
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#8 | ||||||
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In strongly recommend always checkering after finish. Others feel the opposite. But to each their own.
__________________
B. Dudley |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
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#9 | ||||||
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I agree. This is my practice forend. Amazing how the cutter head has a mind of its own. Parker in the background. I am still trying to get my head around fixing the barrel border divot as described by Craig.
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#10 | ||||||
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Ok, clearly not the dowel but am I getting the idea? Use the actual walnut grain matching dowel to sand the barrel tunnel to have it's margin blend into the walnut dowel. Then using only a sliver of that dowel, glue it in and shape away any part to create a new barrel tunnel? Am I even close in my understanding?
![]() (Read Craig's response below. The orientation of the dowel is off 90 degrees) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Cameron Thraen For Your Post: |
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