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04-14-2018, 09:45 PM | #23 | ||||||
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Brian, is it customarily removed for the color case-hardening process?
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"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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04-15-2018, 09:41 AM | #24 | ||||||
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No. I remove them for polishing but re-install them and set screw timing before coloring.
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B. Dudley |
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04-19-2018, 06:32 PM | #25 | ||||||
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I heat the nitre salts to 600 degrees and then place the parts to be treated in and watch the color transformation. The parts will go through all the stages of color depending on how long they are in the solution. They have to be carefully watched and removed at the right time to get the correct color for the part being colored.
Perhaps the prettiest color (not right for Parkers) is peacock blue. I use this color on the screws of muzzle loaders and other hardware. The part has to be polished to a bright sheen with 600 grit and then left in the bath longer than the normal Parker nitre blue color. |
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04-19-2018, 06:47 PM | #26 | ||||||
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The bluing salts can be used over and over for years. I use a quarter tank and when I'm finished let the solution harden and then place tin foil over the tank. Nitre salts will draw water from the atmosphere which is not good. The tank has to be covered when not in use. I have to add more salts from time to time when the level goes down from use. But a bucket of salts will last for a long time.
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04-19-2018, 06:53 PM | #27 | |||||||
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Quote:
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04-20-2018, 12:35 PM | #28 | ||||||
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Brian, I sent you a private message.
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