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Unread 02-21-2012, 06:21 PM   #11
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Old Leadshot
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This gun does not appear to have any mechanical problems. the hammers have strong springs, the firing pins move freely and the springs for the firing pins are doing their job. the triggers break crisp but feel a bit heavy to me. the only rust on this gun is on the bottom of the trigger guard. they are 30" barrells but how to tell if they are cut is something I cannot detect. A prior poster stated that in his opinion judging by the pictures they were not cut. I will be out near the store again tomorrow and can measure the bores, there is not much else I can do. what I do not like about the gun is the bluing that was applied to the barrells. However, I do not detect any problem with the solder between the ribs and the barrells ring like a bell. I would prefer the look of the twist barrells. to remove the blueing from what i understnd is quite a task. How long does it take to get a response for a letter on a gun?

Last edited by Cliff Brown; 02-21-2012 at 06:25 PM.. Reason: more info
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Unread 02-21-2012, 07:37 PM   #12
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Cliff
Go to the Parker home page and click on the fifth line down that says research letters you will be able to down load a form and read about it

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Unread 02-21-2012, 10:31 PM   #13
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From the picture you posted, looking into the muzzle end, I would say the barrels seem not to come together, which is usually a good indicator they have been cut. It also looks to be an 0 grade gun. If they are now 30" and have been cut, they may have originally been 32" and likely full & full. It's been my experience that Parker chokes seem to run close to 3-3.5", so there may still be some constriction; enough that it could still be a good walk-up gun.
Birchwood Casey sells a chemical for stripping blueing and it works pretty quickly. You could then use their browning solution, appled oce or twice and the twist pattern will still be evident. I'm not the one to say what's economical, but I don't think I'd invest in a proper barrel refinishing.
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