Recoil pad and tru oil

[B. Dudley]

You can use wax on it or you can just use gun oil on it to help eliminate that light look of a freshly ground pad. Also, the finer the grit used when finishing the pad will give a better finish. I find that the pad is usually not the issue, but more the black plastic base that needs the wax or oil. They can look gray if they do not have something on them.

If I am finishing a stock with a hard buttplate on it, I usually put the buttplate on it for the last several coats so that the finish goes over the plastic and glosses it up.

I know that Linspeed and also lindseed oil with Japan Drier will dry on the recoil pad rubber. I have used Tru-oil a lot, but have not used it on the pads.

The worst pads for being difficult to get a nice ground finish out of is the limbsaver pads or other similar Gel type pads. I know that the limbsaver company says to actually wet-grind the pads with oil. Progressively working up to finer papers as the grinding is done. This prevents the burning and rough finish on the pad, and also forces the oil into the pad for a shiney finish.

I use a 12" radius sander for recoil pads and the high RPM's of that sander always gives good results, I have evern ground pads with 80g. on that machine with the finish peing pretty good. Although, I usually like to use 120g.

I know of some that use vertical belt sanders for pads. They just don't have high enough RPM's.

[Ray Masciarella]

I too followed Galzan's instructions and was thinking the Vaseline had something to do with it. Guess I couls strip it and start over or use the other suggestions here.

[Kensal Rise]

Hammer, Ray, et al:
I shall refrain from rendering an expanded opinion on Galazan's technique, but it's kind of like wiping some Vaseline onto a bare surface, applying paint over that, then expecting the paint to dry.
It won't.
The time-honoured method is to finish the pad to at least 600 grit level, then simply apply stock finish (one that dries fairly easily on it's own) over the pad in thin coats and allow it to dry naturally. The finish will not dry as quickly on the pad material as it will on wood. Expect to wait up to a week or more between coats.

But once the finish builds up, the pad is protected, and won't catch on clothing as you mount the gun -- which is the real reason to use finish on it.
To repeat: Vaseline is bad. Armour-All is bad. Wax is bad. They all lead to problems. If you've "buffed in" Vaseline, strip the pad and wash it in Lacquer thinner. It may or may not get you back to square one.
Use thin coats of finish (like Tru-Oil if you must) and lots of patience.

Best, Kensal

[Paul Harm]

True oil won't dry if the humidity isn't right, and don't ask me what's right. All I know is sometimes when doing a stock and leaving it indoors it won't harden; but if taken outside it will. Don't know if it's the sunlight or what. Try taking it outside and see what happens. Paul

[Paul Harm]

IMHO, if left outside it won't take more than a couple of hours if just True oil was used. I use a 2X72 belt sander starting with 36 or 60 grit, going to 120. Even with fresh belts, the pad will want to grab if you're not carefull. I then finish by hand with 240 that I spray with WD-40. Good luck - Paul

[Bill Murphy]

I used 20,000 mile engine oil from my old Suburban, well rubbed, but the old girl is gone, so I don't know what to do. I may try Worcestershire sauce next. I used to hunt the "old" into my pads, but those days are over. I'm still able to age case colors, but do it on the sporting clays fields.