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#3 | ||||||
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You have a 1920 GHE on a 1 1/2 frame with Parker Special Steel barrels and a straight grip stock worth well more than the 600 you paid. The buttplate and LOP are the only issues I see and a good gunsmith can do a simple and relatively inexpensive fix of that. Spreader loads will take care of the chokes. Or, as BD says, hit them in the head. Pictures of the sideplate and trigger plate engraving would be nice. This gun is not in the serialization book but you may be able to get historical details with a research letter. Nice find.
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#4 | ||||||
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Here is a sideplate view.
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#5 | ||||||
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That looks like a great buy for $600. Does look like that forearm pushed down a few too many barbed wire fences!! Getting new ejector forearm wood made would be a bit expensive, but that and a nice Silvers recoil pad would certainly make it a very nice looking package.
I'm primarily an upland hunter and skeet shooter, and I don't share some of the other member's aversion to opening chokes. My guns with open chokes or chokes that have been opened get most all of the use, while those that still have their full chokes spend most all their time in the safe. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dave Noreen For Your Post: |
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#6 | ||||||
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An ejector gun too! A big plus.
The forend wood looks like toast.
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B. Dudley |
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#7 | ||||||
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My advice on thos gun:
Install period correct recoil pad to get stock out to desired LOP. Replace forend with good used original. Recut wrist checkering and maybe forend as well if replacement needs it. Strip and Clean action if needed. These alone will greatly improve the overall presentation of the gun and will not cost you a terrible amount of money. Not more than you paid for the gun to start with. I cannot really advise on barrel bluing based on the photo. It looks like it might be good enough to kind of go with the rest of the gun and leave alone.
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B. Dudley |
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#8 | ||||||
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I would buy that gun.
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