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Unread 01-27-2011, 01:12 PM   #11
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Harry,

Thanks so much for that tidbit. I had thought for sure there must be a fairly simple way short of spending too much money to tighten up the breech/barrel fit. That alone probably saved me a bunch!

Ok, no to the rust blue. I had mistakenly thought that was what was original to this double. So a Twist's barrels get a black and white finish like Damascus barrels? Would the process be similar to what Tom Flanigan describes here?
https://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfg2h...gwgwmqdh&pli=1
Does anyone have any pictures they can share of (plain?) Twist barrels finished in black and white? Also, do any parts originally get blued like the triggers and guard? I suspect someone blued several parts including the barrels, side plates, and hammers at some point. I was able to easily rub it off with a scotch brite metal finishing pad to bring it to the point shown in the pictures.

I will look into stock repair vs. replacement. With so much of the inletting portion missing I was concerned that would be real expensive. If possible this old wood, even though plain, has a lot more character (read wear and age) that would undoubtedly be more appropriate for a gun of this age and condition that a new replacement stock.

Thanks again to everyone.

-Eric
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Unread 01-27-2011, 01:18 PM   #12
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Harry,

A followup question to your suggestion for a shim. Is copper preffered or would brass or bronze be harder and so last longer? Just a thought and I could be wrong about my assumption of which is more durable. Thanks.

-Eric
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Unread 01-27-2011, 02:08 PM   #13
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Scan this link for pictures of twist barrels
https://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfg2hmx7_40dxk2scc7
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Unread 01-27-2011, 02:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Estes View Post
Harry,

A followup question to your suggestion for a shim. Is copper preferred or would brass or bronze be harder and so last longer? Just a thought and I could be wrong about my assumption of which is more durable. Thanks.

-Eric
Some members have posted using blue masking tape ?
I haven't tried this yet!
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Unread 01-27-2011, 02:47 PM   #15
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Bob, Can't imagine masking tape lasting very long. Harry's way of using brass shim seams to be a great short term solution....maybe even a long term solution as long as having the shim in there doesn't bother the owner.
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Unread 01-27-2011, 03:27 PM   #16
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I agree doesn't seem like it would last, but the poster remarked that he got over a year out of it hunting.
Glad to hear the mother load was dropped south of here.
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Unread 01-27-2011, 03:31 PM   #17
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Gee, Thanks buddy.....
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Unread 01-27-2011, 04:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E Robert Fabian View Post
I agree doesn't seem like it would last, but the poster remarked that he got over a year out of it hunting.
Glad to hear the mother load was dropped south of here.
See Dave I am not the only one.....
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Unread 01-27-2011, 04:48 PM   #19
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I tried a small strip of duct tape just to see how a shim would do. it was a little too thick and locked it up too tight, also making the foregrip not want to snap in place. Looks like a brass shim a bit thinner than duct tape should do the job perfectly. About the thickness of blue painters tape.
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Unread 01-27-2011, 05:06 PM   #20
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Eric,

I ment brass shim. You can cut a beer can open and do the same as brass shim. I can live with brass better than a beer can. Here is a picture of my 10 gauge lifter with Twist barrels. It sports a brass shim on the hing pin.

Harry
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