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05-03-2011, 06:46 PM | #13 | |||||||
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Quote:
What is the problem with using turned, rather than extruded brass? When I get the gun back from the gunsmith (you know how long that can take) I'll check the bore diameter. I have 3 Parker GHs (1896,1903 and 1907) all bores are .729, but I have an 1889 Remington that is .724, so I can see what you mean about the bores. Paul B. |
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05-04-2011, 06:43 AM | #14 | ||||||
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Paul,
A difference of .005" should not matter much to the wad sealing or pressure developed. A difference of a .022" larger bore as Harry mentioned would likely have a negative affect on a fiber wad sealing. The above stated, I use Gauge Mate adapters to shoot 12 gauge in 10 gauge guns. the plastic wads which I use, normally Claybuster brand, seem to seal good enough. I am using smokeless powder which because of a longer buring time may allow the under-sized wad time to seal in the larger bore. One of you black powder guys please correct me if I'm wrong on this. Mark For what its worth... Mark |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Mark Ouellette For Your Post: |
05-04-2011, 11:21 AM | #15 | ||||||
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Paul,
Like Mark, I too shoot 12 gauge plastic shells and wads through my 10 gauge guns with great success. When I shoot BP in the 12 and 20 gauges I use extruded brass and a fiber wad one gauge larger. I did have some 10 gauge Ballard Brass (now produced by Rocky Mountain) and shot 10 gauge .790 wads through .802 bores. I just thought that if I had extruded 10 gauge brass that used 9 gauge .815 wads I would have gotten a better seal. The Rocky Mountain brass may work wonderfully for you, but you can purchase 25 Magtech 12 gauge shells for $22.49 where 25 Rocky Mountain 2 7/8" 12 guage brass hulls will cost $170.00. Harry |
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