Orphan 20 ga hammer barrels

[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by Harold Lee Pickens

Question, did early fore arms come uncheckered as the one in the pictures for the 34" barrels ser#46296.

A fore arm would only be uncheckered if it were a Grade-0 or a Grade-1 that originally came with no checkering on the grip, or by special order or request.

edit: I realize that using the word 'only' is akin to using 'always' and 'never' in reference to a Parker... we can't take it as definite.





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[Harold Pickens]

Thanks Dean, it came without a stock, but is #46296--would assume the grip would not have been checkered either.

[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by Harold Lee Pickens

Thanks Dean, it came without a stock, but is #46296--would assume the grip would not have been checkered either.

Right, Grade-0 with Plain Twist barrels so it very likely wasn't checkered at all.





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[Kevin McCormack]

I agree with Dean's earlier post - by all means preserve and record the SN from the barrel set /receiver /etc. In later discussions about what will be done re: a project, the owner of the original gun may surface and want to reunite the parts of the gun before the project is begun, thus preserving another original gun.

[Jay Oliver]

That is going to make a nice set for sure. As long as you are fitting those 20 gauge barrels(which are gorgeous) I would have those 34" barrels fitted as well even though that might be more involved. I like the idea of 28 gauge tubes in those. Then you will have a nice 16/20/28 set

If you don't mind sharing, let us know who you are going to use to fit the barrels. Or send me a PM if you that's easier.

This is a great project. Not many 20 gauge hammer guns...

[ArtS]

Originally Posted by Harold Lee Pickens

The 34 in barrels were beat on and filed on the breech end, don't ask me why. It would take a master metal worker/welder alot of effort to make it right. Look at the gap.

If 34" barrels are in decent shape besides the breech, I would put any money spent into breech repair. Those have to be a rare duck too. You can have another set fit and restamped, but anyone with any knowledge will look it up and know it isn't original whether you disclose or not. The price will be significantly lowered either way.

Barrels aren't heat treated to a great degree, so I would think any competent welder could slowly lay a solid overlay on the breech and the chamber be recut to the proper depth and everything cleaned up. They may be able to devise a flexible dam clamped around the outside as far as possible to contain the weld as much as possible. Heat sink past and heat sinks could possible be employed to protect the solder joints. Worst case may be a resolder or relay of the ribs. I have never seen this done, but I do have a Brownell 12 gauge tool that can within a few minutes by hand cut a ring inlet recess which allows you to simply silver solder the ring in, then rechamber to cut the new rim. I have done this to several old 12's that had faulty ignition and they all worked out well. No machinery needed. I would ask around and see if this has been done before.



I would also have the new barrels fitted, but really see no point in spending money to restamp. It would have no monetary appeal to a collector that I could see.

[ArtS]

I have an older set of 16/28 tubes with the 28 ga extractor. If you get the barrel repaired, contact me and if I still have them I will send them to you to try out. If they fit, you could play with them and see if you would like to order new ones. These are fixed choke. The Briley 28 tubes I have for a 30" 12 gauge really don't shoot at all like a 28 gauge gun, even though the 12 is an English 6# gun. It's really more of a talking stunt because I shoot a lot of 12ga 3/4 oz anyway.

[Mills]

Very cool! The network among PGCA members is amazing

[Harold Pickens]

Amen to that Brother Mills!!
Art, thanks so much for the offer, am pursuing options for the gun, may take you up on that.