do any of you shoot blackpowder shells?

[Captain Bob]

A word to the wise about shooting BP and smokeless ammunition. Do not try shooting smokeless after shooting BP in the same session without first giving the barrels a good cleaning. Do not think that even after firing only a few BP loads, "just for fun", you can "shoot your gun clean" with smokeless. It does not work and you will create a cleaning nightmare during which you will discover you know cuss words you never knew you knew.

[Old and Reliable]

I had a old LeFever G grade 12- 30" Twist barrels and I bought a box of British BP paper 12- their No. 6 shot 2.5" 1 0z. after we Magnafluxed the barrels, we shot it for proof and pattern with some of those loads, also some 2.5" RST shells as well- absolutely no problems with either- I still have some of those paper BP12's and also some in 20 bore (3/4 oz. No. 7 shot) and I agree, it is fun to use them in one tube when hunting with others-

I bought a older 1851 Colt Navy .36 cap and ball- with some accessories in the box- and perhaps you BP gents can identify and date same for me- (1) Older ed metal can with screw off top with logo label DUPONT 1F Superfine FFg Gunpowder with Wilmington, DEL. U.S.A. address (no zip code) on back in black ink-- at base MADE IN U. S. A. below that NET Wt. 1 lb. or 454 Grams= after I have my gunsmith check over this older Colt, wonder if that powder would be correct for that weapon and cal.- I also found in the box a new red and white same size cannister of GOEX, INC. also FFg Superfine Black Rifle powder- later issue as it has a zip code for the factory in MOOSIC, PENNSYLVANIA, 18507, U.S.A.- similar powders? just the "Uncle Dupey" stuff is older, right??

I only reload AA 12 target hulls- with Red Dot and 209 primers and white wads-for clays and non-game birds- have no experience reloading paper shells with BP-thanks for any information on the powder cans--

[Joe Wood]

Fellers, cleaning BP fouling is hardly any more messy than cleaning regular smokeless. Remove the barrels, holding them vertically I squirt Windex into each tube till it drips out the other end. Run a wad of paper towel through each tube and then finish cleaning with a couple wet patches of Windex. Dry and lube the barrels with whatever you like. I use non-petroleum products, such as Wonder Lube, to finish with if black powder is to be used. Nothing could be simpler. Cleaning with water, etc., is so messy I don't think I'd shoot the stuff if I had to do it.

[AmarilloMike]

Originally Posted by Don Kaas

I sure wish they still made Dupont Bulk Smokeless...

Don I have been experimenting with Rex III. It is very bulky. For instance, from the 16 gauge reloaders group, there is a recipe for Rex III that propels 1 oz of shot at 1230 fps and 9200 psi. It calls for 22 grains which I get pretty close to with a MEC #38 powder bushing.

Best,

Mike

[Ed Blake]

Sherman Bell did an article in the DGJ last year about Trail Boss powder in BPCR. He likes it, but it is not the bulk smokeless he had hoped for in a rifle. Too little velocity with equal pressure. Has anyone used it in a shotgun? I have used 50/50 anti-freeze and water to clean a shotgun after BP. The residue just slides out the barrel. Clean up is very fast. The key is unpitted bores no matter what you clean with.

[Double Trouble]

Francis:

Is this gun an antique or one of Colt's "reproductions ?"

Either can sounds like it contains your basic "2F" black powder. Typically, people use the finer "3F" granulation in C&B revolvers. 2F will work, but it'll leave a lot of residue (even more than 3F) and won't be efficient in such a short barrel (probably 7.5 inches). It'll launch one helluva flame !!!!

BTW: My C&B guns like # 10 caps (not the more typical # 11). They fit the nipples better (tighter). I've had # 11's knocked off of my Walker replica by recoil...

Use felt wads beneath the ball, or a lube over the seated ball. My 36 C&B will easily keep all 6 shots in the black at 25 yards - if I do my part !

[Harry Collins]

Windex with Vinigar is good but avoid windex with amonia. I like plain hot water as well as MAP which is equal parts of Murphy's oil soap, isopropyl Alcohol and hydrogen Peroxide to cean barrels and just wipe up the mess. I did use Wonder Lub but have found rust afterward and now use Fluid Film (find it at your farm supply store) on all my BP pistols and muzzel loading shotguns and rifles and have never pulled a "brown" rag through a bore since. I use FFF in all pistols but FF works great in .36 cal and above. The standard Military pistol loads were 1 1/2 dram (35 gr) for Dragoons, 1 dram (28 gr) for 44 Army, 3/4 dram (20 gr) for .36 Navy and 1/2 dram (14 gr) for the 32's. These are all by volume and not weight
I have shot smokeless loads after BP loads without event and am curious of the ramifications? Sure don't want to screw up!
Harry

[David Hamilton]

Yes, the clean-up is more complicated but it goes with these older guns and "feels" right.
It is fun to load and shoot your own shells and the smoke and sulphur clouds are part of the display. The pellets kill just fine. The clean-up is important to the survival of your barrels but can be done correctly without any high tech methods. I love it ! David

[Old and Reliable]

[QUOTE=John Mazza;7278]Francis:

Is this gun an antique or one of Colt's "reproductions ?"

Either can sounds like it contains your basic "2F" black powder. Typically, people use the finer "3F" granulation in C&B revolvers. 2F will work, but it'll leave a lot of residue (even more than 3F) and won't be efficient in such a short barrel (probably 7.5 inches). It'll launch one helluva flame !!!!

BTW: My C&B guns like # 10 caps (not the more typical # 11). They fit the nipples better (tighter). I've had # 11's knocked off of my Walker replica by recoil...

Use felt wads beneath the ball, or a lube over the seated ball. My 36 C&B will easily keep all 6 shots in the black at 25 yards - if I do my part !-- This is a Repro- believe the former owner bought it as a commorative about 25 years ago-I bought it at a yard sale- three other fellas had looked at it, but they had "two strikes against them" I guess- they didn't have cash money, wanted to write the Lady a out of area check- and her son-in-law told her, thankfully, to only sell to someone with a purchase permit. In Michigan, if you have a CCW, as I do, you don't need a purchase permit for any handgun, BP or cartridge gun-in fact, you can buy a shoulder arm (shotgun, rifle) without the NICS check if you have a valid CCW-I explained that to her, she called the Country Sheriff's Office to verify that, and then I paid her in cash (and got a signed receipt.) The nipples have corroded a bit so I have the cylinder immersed in Kroil- the bore looks fine- no pits or "coal mine" look, but I wonder how accurate it will be- I have an early series Python with 7.5" barrel and use .38 wadcutters for target work and practice (sometimes I do a Russian reverse roulette- load one of the 6 with a full house .357- spin the cylinder and close it without looking- one possible good way to avoid a flinch-the bane of all accurate rifle and pistol shooting- IMO-As our gun clubs indoor range (for now) is only set for .22LR- my winter league pistol shooting will be with my .22 MT Woodsman circa 1940 ("elephant eared grips")-but by Spring I'll start with this "coal burner" and see what I can do with it-Thanks for the tips--