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09-05-2018, 12:21 PM | #13 | ||||||
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I hate to say it but you absolutely do not want to now seal the barrels up and then blue, because you have already introduced water to between the ribs. That is why Fox, Ithaca, Savage and others used weep holes. Since you already have leaks you should have blown all of the water out with air and heat them with a heat gun to get the water out.
You should remove the streaked bluing, and immediately start rust bluing and boiling with the leak (top rib) up so the oil that does come out floats up and to the top of the water, thus not down and won't streak. I just set them in the tank on the lugs and do not suspend them. They rust no matter what you do. Either flood the tank to get rid of the oil since it is floating on top, or I have scooped it off. Finish bluing and after neutralizing the acidic bluing in cold water with baking soda, the last step is to put the barrels into water displacing oil. Let them soak, blow out the contaminated oil (which will be milky), and soak again, repeating until milky oil is gone. Then pull them out and let them hang. I had rather have leaky ribs that constantly had oil in them than ones sealed up with water present from the process you already started. Again my 2 cents. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jerry Harlow For Your Post: |
09-05-2018, 12:30 PM | #14 | ||||||
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I totally agree that all moisture between the barrels must be removed before any more work is done. If you need to go the acraglas method, this still applies.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Tom Flanigan For Your Post: |
09-07-2018, 04:22 PM | #15 | ||||||
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Reading your post. If you didn't get the barrels to a full boil and hot enough to evaporate the water after you pulled them out, could those be water stains? It seems that oil would stop the blueing and you would see evidence of it in your boiling tank. I'm not an expert but just a guess. Good luck.
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09-07-2018, 06:52 PM | #16 | |||||||
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Quote:
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09-08-2018, 08:56 AM | #17 | ||||||
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Just a note on leaky Parker ribs......I have refinished a large number of Parker barrels since I started restoring barrels at 16 years old. I have seen relatively few leaky ribs. Maybe I've been lucky, but, in my experience, leaky ribs are generally something that I don't have to deal with, even on the early lifter guns. This is certainly a testament to Parker quality.
Judicious use of a good degreaser and acetone should eliminate any problems on most barrels, regardless of which rusting agent you use. Prep of the barrels is key to eliminating problems. |
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09-08-2018, 11:20 AM | #18 | ||||||
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Update: I soaked the barrels in acetone for 3 days, then degreased them with simple green. After the first round of rusting, then boiling and carding, I'm happy to report that whatever leaking was occurring from the rib is not affecting the finish- whew!
Note that I am adding a 2 hour bake in the oven at 215F after carding to make sure any water under the rib gets dried out before starting the next cycle. I'll post pictures when I am done, and update my other thread, "Learning on a Parker VH". Thanks to all for the help and advice! |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Brian Arthur For Your Post: |
09-08-2018, 11:30 AM | #19 | ||||||
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Great news Brian.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Tom Flanigan For Your Post: |
09-10-2018, 02:15 PM | #20 | ||||||
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Alls well perhaps, but the rib is not sound, and likely will fail further with shooting???
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Keavin Nelson |
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