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12-07-2020, 10:09 PM | #13 | ||||||
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Thanks, Dean. I will certainly get these articles. As I am new to the PGCA, I will get the cd.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cameron Thraen For Your Post: |
12-07-2020, 10:27 PM | #14 | ||||||
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That CD is such a wonderful resource you will never be sorry you bought it.
Thank you fir supporting the PGCA. .
__________________
"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
12-08-2020, 12:38 PM | #15 | ||||||
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just noticed that your gun was a 12 b what kind of shells do you shoot in this gun...good looking gun... charlie
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12-08-2020, 06:34 PM | #16 | ||||||
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Black powder using traditional 2 3/4 dram (70g 2F Olde Eynsford) load with components (over powder card, lubed fibre wads, 1oz shot, overshot card, roll crimped) in 2 1/2" brass (Magtech) hulls or same load in roll crimped Federal paper. Federal paper is trimmed to get a good roll crimp. This is my primary hunting load.
Also use low psi 700-X 24gram loads in straight walled hulls such as Fiocchi or Estate using BP REX wads CB4100 WJ wads. I also have a 1oz load with American Select and CB4118 wad. Smokeless loads are all under 6000 psi. There are also a couple of low psi loads using Clay Dot. I hope this helps. I load my own shells. |
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12-08-2020, 07:10 PM | #17 | ||||||
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Cameron here are a few pics of my GH fore end as asked.
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12-08-2020, 08:04 PM | #18 | ||||||
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Thank you. These photos are quite helpful.
Looking at these photos I am inclined to think the finish is amber or perhaps garnet shellac without any other color added. I have read the excellent piece by Woodreaux on classical finishes (thanks for a fine piece) and the material by Ken61 concerning shellac. These do use alkanet red and Brian Dudley states he will sometimes add this in the final finish application. I am trying to decide whether I should add color to my shellac as I refinish my Parker forend. As I am not familiar with using shellac as a gun wood finish I would appreciate any other views on this idea. My experience is limited to using orange shellac finishing on shooter gun boxes and such made from lighter wood such as maple with a final application of clear wiping varnish to provide a protective layer. Last edited by Cameron Thraen; 12-13-2020 at 06:27 PM.. Reason: Added context |
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12-13-2020, 08:15 PM | #19 | ||||||
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French Polish is just shellac with a little oil applied to the pad to keep the pad from sticking to the wood when applied. Oil and shellac don't mix so only the shellac goes on the wood except if you use too much oil, Shellac dries almost immediately so when you complete one application, you can start again. Many applications can be put on in one day. Search the Internet for how to do french polish. I use amber shellac from Bullseye which can be thinned if needed. If you use flakes it needs to be cut down for the proper thickness.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Chuck Bishop For Your Post: |
12-14-2020, 01:00 PM | #20 | ||||||
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Austin's personal instructions to me to "Finish gunstocks the Parker way".
Put 1" of shellac in a bottle and 1/8" of linseed oil on top. add a couple drops of japan drier. Make a round pad with some wool the size of a nickel, cover with pure cotton cloth (T-shirt type). Fold pad a little larger than mouth of the bottle, shake bottle and apply to pad. Rub finish onto stock and keep rubbing until dry (about 10 to 15 seconds). some people like a little oil on pad as well. Ratio of oil to shellac is not critical but too much oil will give a oily surface. Oil can and should be wiped off after shellac dries. Supposedly if you thin shellac to say 50 50 with alcohol you will get shinier surface. |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to tom leshinsky For Your Post: |
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