damascus- raised dent

[Richard Flanders]

Sounds like you used a hammer and a piece of leather. Hard belt leather I assume? That should work well. I use a small hammer with a hard rawhide head, originally made for leather tooling I think. You'll never mar a barrel with leather or smooth plastic as long as you make sure there are no steel chips in your leather piece or the leather hammer head. The little brass handled hammer with screw-on brass/plastic/steel hammer face that Lyman markets works very well also. It's easy to spot small steel chips in the white plastic and you can reface it if necessary.

[OLD GEEZER]

Robert: I now know what a pin gauge is so thanks for that and nice pictures by the way. Thomas

[Dennis]

I try to learn something new every day and today I not only heard of a pin gauge but also was able to learn what they look like like and how they are used. Thanks to all for the lesson. It is always a pleasure to read the posts on the Parker forum and learn something new. Plenty of wonderful people here, that is for sure.

[Roundsworth]

Robert, that is a fine set of gages! Exactly what the 10 gauge fan needs. I can see where they would be ideal 'anvils' for removing a bulge, but how do you raise a dent? Do you lube up the gages and drive them with an oak rod, or somesuch? With your set, you can start out small and raise it a little at a time. Cool!

I will have to check my Grainger catalog!

[Richard Flanders]

Mark: you have it right. You start with the first gage that will 'stick' at the dent, drive it in to where the dent is in the middle then tap around the edges of the dent with the plastic or leather hammer until the gage loosens then slide it out and go to the next size up and do it again until you have it where you want it. I do lightly lube the gages also. Care is needed to make sure you only tap the barrel where the gage is; if you tap past either end you'll dent the bbl, so you need to know the exact limits of the gage. To get the gage to where you want it in the barrel, you figure it out on the outside of the bbl then mark your dowel with tape and tap the gage in until the tape is at the breech.They come with very sharp edges so I bevel them on my grinder and polish the edge with an ez lap diamond steel so that they don't cut or mar any metal when they encounter the dent. They could easily do that if the dent is severe enough. Slow and easy and cautious is the order of the operation so as to "do no harm". If you google 'pin gages' you'll get tons of hits so they're no problem to find. I think my set only cost $54 but you can pay way more than that. Rutland Tool is a good supplier for all sorts of tools and tooling; They 're not the cheapest but they have the most complete supply of hardware and tools I've ever seen.

[10ga Hammer]

Mark, Richard has given an excellent discription of how to use a pin gauge. A slight taper ground and polished on one end is required as well as a good lube.
I must confess that I use this set mostly to measure bore diameter since purchasing a 12ga hydraulic dent remover.By adding a brass shim under the anvil of a 12ga dent remover you can also do 10ga. It is a slow and somewhat tedious process useing plugs to remove a dent,but it's an operation that requires care/patience anyway. They also beat spending 100's of $ for a hydraulic unit if you only have one or two barrels to do.They can be found on ebay fairly cheap if you watch.Here's an example.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/M2-Minus-Plu...item5ae3bc2dc7

[Roundsworth]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330645360674...84.m1438.l2648

Whillikers! Check this one out! I would bet that a brand new Starrett set would not cost ten grand! E-Bay has lots of inexpensive sets listed for less than $100.00.

[ed good]

have heard that a bulged barrel is a weaken barrel. pushing the steel back in place does not negate that and may in fact weaken it more? and, that it may bulge again the same place? your comments?

[Holeshot]

I hope not but will find out , this is a joy to carry and shoot at 6.5 lbs. and perfectly balanced.

[Steve McCarty]

Originally Posted by David Holes

The dent was about in the center in the 28 in. barrels. I used Richards leather idea and was impressed how well it worked.

I have a nice Spanish double that had a pretty severe bulge in one barrel. I shot it that way for a few years, but it bugged me. It took me about three years to find a smith who'd removed the bulge and he did a fantastic job of it. Impossible to see where the bulge was. Then he opened the chokes from Very full and full to full and modified.

I think someone shot the gun with steel shot and it pushed out the barrel at the start of the choke....about 9" from the muzzle.

Here's my Spanish double. I think it is a 50's gun. :