What's your experience with ...

[Heff]

I would not be afraid of shooting using #5’s

[B. Dudley]

The last time I hunted with a Cyl/ Full gun, I had no problems.

I think it is a very good combination.

[edgarspencer]

As both Scott and Brian suggest, cylinder bore, i.e. No Choke, can be effective in the hands of a good shootist. 30" circles at 40 yards, may be a method of determining pattern density, but, try a circle which might best represent the distance a jumpy bird might fly at. The best dog may not be responsible if a jittery bird flushes early, but if you're withing 20-25 yards, your pattern test in a 20" circle (about the area a bird occupies, in flight), and your skill to put the shot IN THAT CIRCLE will almost always drop the bird. If you don't consistently shatter clays at that distance, with that gun, pick a tighter choked gun.

[Dean Romig]

I have a 16 ga. Parker with both barrels at Cyl and it breaks clays effectively out to 40+ yards but I would never attempt to bring a pheasant down with it even at 25-30 yards.





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[edgarspencer]

I know the 16 of which you speak, and I killed 4 grouse with it the first day I took it out.
That said, a few #8 pellets will break clays quite impressively at about the distance you mention, even as your pattern is pretty dang open at that range, but, I still maintain, #5 shot, at 20-25 yards will most certainly kill pheasant, if you put your shot centered on the bird.
If you don't put your shot on the bird, perhaps you are correct in choosing a different gun.

[Kensal Rise]

Originally Posted by Dean Romig

I have a 16 ga. Parker with both barrels at Cyl and it breaks clays effectively out to 40+ yards but I would never attempt to bring a pheasant down with it even at 25-30 yards.
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Choke debates are virtually endless. But ALL of my Cyl. & Cyl. 12 bores perform as well as Dean's 16 on ANY sporting clays target. So much so, that I don't even consider choke when I pick a gun for a day's outing.

The same goes for my 16-bores or 20s. They will ALL break a target with 3/4 oz. loads out to about 50 yds. or so as long as I'm "on" with my lead, etc.

What's more, I also use the same Cyl. & Cyl. guns with 1 oz. loads to great effect on preserve pheasant at just short of the same distances. After all, what choice did shooters have before choke was invented?

[todd allen]

I would rather err on the side of too tight, when it comes to chokes, especially when it comes to a 20 ga. on pheasants.
Besides the extra yardage thing, I would prefer a clean miss with a tight choke over a single pellet fringe hit with an open choke.

[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by edgarspencer

If you don't put your shot on the bird, perhaps you are correct in choosing a different gun.

That said, no pellet size, ounces of shot, gauge, or distance from the muzzles will help you if you don’t put your shot on the bird.






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[Double Lab]

Originally Posted by Dean Romig

That said, no pellet size, ounces of shot, gauge, or distance from the muzzles will help you if you don’t put your shot on the bird.






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You got it Dean.

Karl, I would'nt use that choke combination on wild pheasants period. Quail, woodcock and grouse it would be perfect. I've bagged a boatload of wild SD pheasants over some very good dogs and I shoot 20's and 28's. You need choke, the more the better. For a 20 I suggest a minimum of .020 in the right barrel and .027-.030 in the left. I'm not a fan of 5's as I use 7.5's with a lot of choke. They are usually shot in the open giving you plenty of time to focus and swing to the front end of the bird. That's the only reliable way to kill and not cripple. Keep your shots to under 40yds. and you should do fine. Good luck.

[Kevin McCormack]

[QUOTE=Dean Romig;261634]My advice would be to bring a different gun for late season pheasants.

Sound logic, Dean!