Shortening 30” bbl’s 2 inches

[John Davis]

As long as that bulge is there, nobody (who knows anything) is going to pay much for it anyway.

[Cold Spring]

The Gauge Pins referenced by Bob are straight cylinders made to tight tolerance and if proper diameter will work well in the forward part of the bore for bulges and in increments to raise a dent. But trying to use one or more in a tapered choke will likely result in barrel "ring" marks.

[J. A. EARLY]

DAN MORGAN 802 457-4828

[John Allen]

I would try to tap the bulge out. As Mr. Davis pointed out,the gun is already devalued. However, cutting the barrels is an immediate 50 to 60 percent or more drop in value. If the bulge can be raised correctly your gun will retain more value. Especially since the bulge is at the muzzle. Another problem with cutting barrels is that you will always change the point of impact no matter how competent your gunsmith is.

[Don Strelioff]

My thoughts exactly John
I would rather have something that I would use I like the idea of a open choked gun mostly for hunting ruffies and because of the style of choking on Parker’s I would end up with 10-14 thousand contrivtion
Trying to find a Parker with open factory chokes is a expensive proposition I have a skeet’s bore Mike so I did the bore measurement both bbl’s are 735” the chokes are tight 40” at the muzzle with the long taper

[David C Porter]

It seems like some are confusing bulged & dented barrels. Dents are much easier to push back out with a dent riser tool. Bulged barrels much more difficult since on a double barrel the Bulge in the barrel is usually fully Bulged around the barrel & you can't get to the inside unless you take the barrels apart. Since Parker used a very long choke cutter, you can usally cut 2" & it usally reduces the chokes one choke size more open with the barrels still touching. Then take a half round file & remove the 1/4" on the front rib matting & with an engraving tool cut a line between the matting & the smooth portion at the end of the barrel & install front sight bead. If done properly, no one will know the barrel has been cut except yourself. Or leave it alone & shoot it the way it is.

[Don Strelioff]

I agree with the bulge dent evaluation 100% correct in my eyes this is a noticeable bulge
Your fix is correct as well with the last 1/8 of a inch finishing
Thanks

[Don Strelioff]

Well my decision is made I will remove as bbl as needed so I end up with 10-14 thousand constriction it will done correctly not a bubba job
Hopefully i will be able to reinstall the factory bead
Thanks everyone for the input all valid comments

[Steiner]

Originally Posted by Don Strelioff

Well my decision is made I will remove as bbl as needed so I end up with 10-14 thousand constriction it will done correctly not a bubba job
Hopefully i will be able to reinstall the factory bead
Thanks everyone for the input all valid comments

Those are pretty darn functional chokes. Shoot the heck out of it.

[Stan Hillis]

I tried to remove a bulge in a set of A H Fox barrels several years ago by using gauge pins, since it was behind any choke constriction where the bore was parallel. I knew that I couldn't remove that part of the bulge between the barrels, and between the ribs, but I tried to remove what I could. As I was finishing up the "tapping in" on the bulge ...... the top rib popped loose from the thousands of light taps to shrink the bulge with the tiny hammer and shop-made brass drift.

I will never try to remove a bulge again. I like long barrels much more than most but a 28" bulge free barrel is preferred to a 30" one with most of the bulge removed, but a bulge still visible in the bore between the ribs.

JMO, YMMV