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03-19-2024, 09:45 PM | #13 | ||||||
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Are you related to Chris Wren, the architect?
I think he specialized in churches. |
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03-19-2024, 09:49 PM | #14 | ||||||
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Sinking money into a replacement stock would be financial suicide. Maybe look around for a used stock and have it fitted. Also, I would never put the parts in any water. I usually use a Dremmel tool with a bronze wire wheel at low speed to get junk out of an action, once the floor plate and easily accessible parts are disassembled. Also, no steel wool. Frontier 45 pad for cleaning anything metal on the outside.
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Jerry Harlow For Your Post: |
03-20-2024, 07:08 AM | #15 | ||||||||
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On the topic of cleaning, how easy it is to disassemble the hammerhead? When I was trying to get the barrels off, I removed the 2 screws on the bottom plate and lifted it up about 1/8" to get some oil in there, but I did not remove the plate. If/when I decide to remove the plate, do I need to be worried about any springs that may fly out, or will the layout be fairly straight forward? I plan to video/photograph the disassembly to ensure I have documentation of how it came apart. And on the "financial" aspect, I understand this particular shotgun in its current condition isn't what I would call "high dollar" or a "collector's item", but generally, is this model considered valued around $200-400? Higher? Lower? Sentimental value of this shotgun is priceless and I do not see this ever being sold or transferred out of the family, but I like to keep records, and would like a ball park number should I need to interact with my insurance (god forbid). |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Chris Wren For Your Post: |
03-20-2024, 09:14 AM | #16 | |||||||
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I went to Easter services at St. Pauls many years ago. Just walking through the main archway was enough to bring tears to my eyes. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to edgarspencer For Your Post: |
03-20-2024, 09:39 AM | #17 | |||||||
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When you are all done, use a good water displacing oil. anything with rust inhibitors in it will ruin all your hard work, as the finish is quite delicate in this dry state. I have found that plain kerosene is the absolute best. Dunk your parts, or brush on liberally for a barrel and let it set for for an hour or so. Following this use clean oil (again no detergents or rust inhibitors) for your first oiling. After this initial oiling the finish is "set" and you can use whatever gun oil you like or prefer for normal maintenance down the road. Your frame looks like it has been refinished before. You can preserve its current weathered look and "patina" with the above boiling. If it looks too neglected, you can bring up the finish just a touch with a single careful iteration of rust bluing to make the weathering and age look more uniform, without taking away aged appearance. |
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03-20-2024, 09:48 AM | #18 | ||||||
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[QUOTE=Chris Wren;407700]
If/when I decide to remove the plate, do I need to be worried about any springs that may fly out, or will the layout be fairly straight forward? I plan to video/photograph the disassembly to ensure I have documentation of how it came apart. QUOTE] We see how you got the stock off without removing the floor plate! The guts of the stock head were gone. Otherwise it would not have come off. The trigger guard rotates off counter-clockwise. Then remove all three screws from the floor plate, noting their positions if they were aligned north south. If not, the long one will go in the back upon reassembly. This will give you access. But duplicating a stock from the one you have will be useless since it is missing its innards. Plus one can't reinstall a stock without removing the sears. It's not hard to disassemble but it takes practice and correct screwdrivers. There will be four parts that will fall out so be careful and note their escape. Photos taken help. I wouldn't go too far but just clean up the receiver/action (hammerhead as you call it). Please join PGCA for more advice/help. You may find your stock for there is a member's section where you can buy/sell and look for parts. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jerry Harlow For Your Post: |
03-20-2024, 11:09 AM | #19 | ||||||
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Yup, that stock is junk...
Regarding cleaning, my go-to method is to use a sonic cleaning tank with the correct solvent (one that will not ignite) and let it sit in it for at least 6 hours. More iterations may be necessary but this is the method I use for cruddy internals. I use Big45 Frontier pads externally. .
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"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
03-21-2024, 12:03 AM | #20 | ||||||
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Chris, here is a link on the PGCA FAQ section on how to disassemble a Parker shotgun.
https://parkerguns.org/pages/faq/FAQ...yWithPhoto.htm |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to David Noble For Your Post: |
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removing barrels, teardown |
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