|
04-26-2020, 10:35 AM | #93 | ||||||
|
Thanks Chris. Steam has worked really well for me, and I don’t have space to horizontal tanks, so I’ll stick with it. For carding after etching I use 0 or 1, and small carding brushes from Brownell’s.
|
||||||
The Following User Says Thank You to Bill Graham For Your Post: |
04-27-2020, 12:24 PM | #94 | ||||||
|
Amazing work!!!
|
||||||
The Following User Says Thank You to Mills Morrison For Your Post: |
04-27-2020, 08:38 PM | #95 | ||||||
|
looks good to me...charlie
|
||||||
08-24-2021, 03:14 PM | #96 | ||||||
|
I’m new here and have been reading all I can here and on the web as well. I’ve read Tom Flannigans work diligently, your input here, and spoke with Dale Edmonds briefly on the phone. You guys have some incredible knowledge and experience regarding Damascus so I have some questions to clear my confusion.
I’m working on a 1906 LC Smith double hammer that’s Damascus. There were some very feint indications of a pattern in small spots under bright light. I’ve polished with 400 grit and ready to use Laurel Mountain. I know every set is different so here’s my questions and thoughts. I intend to rust, and card dry with denim twice prior to first boil. Will rusting twice prior matter? When carding do I attempt to make the rust blend perfectly, and how much rust gets removed? Until it all disappears? After boiling, should I let them cool prior to carding? I’ll be carding with the barrels submerged. When removing the oxide created on the first boil, does all of it get removed or is there an even darkness left? I’m assuming that I would see some pattern beginning to emerge. How much pressure should I apply when carding after etching with 3/o or 4/o steel wool? I’ll be using Ferric to etch and probably the soda solution while carding. I appreciate all input I can get for this. Oh, I will strive to get my barrels done as well as the photos in this thread! They’re beautiful. Awesome work gentlemen. Richard |
||||||
08-26-2021, 07:33 PM | #97 | |||||||
|
Quote:
1. I polish no finer than 230. The coarser grit provides a better surface for the compound to grab and the barrels will wear better than with finer grit. 2. Card with 4/0 steel wool after the boiling process. Card until all the rusting residue is removed. The barrels will be gray at first but will darken with each iteration. You don’t have to worry about carding off the bluing that is building up. It is tough and will not be diminished with 4/0 steel wool. Card until the barrels are perfectly smooth. 3. It is better to let the barrels cool because cooled barrels are easier to handle. Use clean cotton gloves while carding. Use no gloves with a rubber surface. No need to card submerged barrels. It is much better to let them dry and cool somewhat before carding. Its much easier and you can better see that all the residue is removed. Card as hard as necessary to remove the residue. 4. After the barrel etch, apply baking soda to stop the rusting process and run the barrels under the faucet and thoroughly rinse them. Then I gently card the barrels with a baking soda slurry on my fingers to get the contrast. |
|||||||
The Following User Says Thank You to Tom Flanigan For Your Post: |
08-26-2021, 09:13 PM | #98 | ||||||
|
Thank you for responding Tom. I’ve read your articles and they’re very helpful. I’ve rusted twice already and it appears I’m on track. I will attempt the first boiling tomorrow. I did wipe loose rust powder off going the full length of the barrels with a clean cloth. For clarification, you’re saying NOT to card submerged after boiling? Will being aggressive create scratches? That’s a concern of mine as well. I also want to clarify etching. I’m under the impression that etching will help develop the contrast. Is this correct?
Richard |
||||||
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Richard Ranney For Your Post: |
08-27-2021, 05:28 PM | #99 | |||||||
|
Quote:
1. I believe you will get better results by boiling after each rust iteration. The barrels will be much easier to card after the orange oxide turns to black after boiling. 2. Don’t try to card the barrels in the boiling tank. It takes a long time to cool down and there is nothing to be gained. You can easily see the residue with dry cooled barrels. No point in making things harder than they need to be. 3. Being aggressive carding with 4/0 steel wool is a good practice after the boiled barrels are cooled after the blackening process. Card as hard as you like. You will not scratch the barrels. 4. Etching is the process used to bring out the Damascus contrast. Be very careful carding at this stage. Go easy with the baking soda slurry rubbing softly. |
|||||||
08-27-2021, 08:26 PM | #100 | ||||||
|
Tom thank you. I’m doing my third boil this evening. So far looks good, I can already see the pattern developing. I’ll do the first etch tomorrow. I’m thinking perhaps 10-15 seconds with 2/3 etching solution from the radio shack bottle and water up to about 35” in my tube. Please correct me if I’m on the wrong path with that. If I can figure out posting pictures I’ll post some. It’s telling me to copy a URL location but I thought I could just attach pics.
Richard |
||||||
|
|