Roll Crimping

[Cory Rams]

I don’t have the shells with me to measure but I would say there is a little less than a half inch of Measurement on the fold crimp. I was pondering the same question on how much is too much. I’m guessing it makes no difference in patterning. I can tell you it makes zero difference in fitting into my SxS. My loaded shell is still over a half inch short of my 2 & 7/8” chamber length. I could have trimmed my shell down further to have less so my Extra hull length would be closer to the lead shot payload but figured I’d try it like this and give it a try. I would guess if loading in something other than a SxS or single shot there could be cycling issues because the crimp is out far enough that it’s not supported by the payload of lead shot. I’m curious myself so that’s a good question. I have seen slugs with a lot deeper roll crimps then my loads. I would say it might increase the pressure a little? My powder charge is less than than a square load and loaded with FG so I’m not worried about a pressure spike. Hopefully someone will chime in and let me know if I did something wrong.

[Nick Ross]

Hey guys, sorry I haven't been on in a while. I've seen some questions on the thread about crimping. When roll crimping with my crimper I recommend using some lube like a small drop of oil to the outside mouth of the case or even a small amount of vaseline dabbed in the crimper itself with a q-tip. That's the way I test them all and the way I crimp my shells. I don't recommend dry crimping. As far as rpm I see people using different rpm with success, but I actually use the same rpm for all gauges on the drill press I use to spot check crimpers as I make them. I can't check every crimper because when I make them I make them many at a time, but I hold tolerance close to keep them all as close to the same as possible. The rpm on the drill press I use isn't clearly marked so I just ordered a laser tachometer to check it and will get back with you as soon as I get the number. I've been wanting to know the exact rpm myself for a while. Your best rpm may be different though because I also don't have every hull out there to test. I appreciate all of you who use my tools. I would love to hear about what you use your loads for and any game taken with them. I try to make the best tools I can and every one is made 100% by myself. Down to taking crimpers home and spending hours deburring each by hand under a lighted magnifying lamp. Thanks again!

[Stan Hillis]

I'm super glad to learn of your roll crimpers, Nick. This is just another example of the value of fine forums like this one. Information is so easily shared and garnered.

I, too, searched for really good crimpers, not knowing of yours. A hunting friend from Savannah who is well versed in French shotgunning things gave me a .410 roll crimper that is made in France. It is finely made and does a great job, also. It is the only gauge made by them that I have, and yours will be so much more easily obtained. Thanks for offering them, and thanks Edgar for the heads up!

[Nick Ross]

The rpm I use on the press clocked at 480. When spot checking crimpers on hulls I actually use that same setting from .410 all the way to 8 gauge. You may need a different one again. The main thing I would stress is use lube. I use tap magic when making and checking crimpers simply because I'm in a machine shop and it's there. Gun oil would work too. A small drop will do. I dab of Vasoline from a q-tip inside the crimper will last for a few shells before needing to add more. By the way if you like watching youtube videos Jeff of Taofledermaus uses my crimper exclusively. Look up the "Tsar Bomba" slug video he put up a year or so ago.

[Cory Rams]

Picked this vintage press up today for a whopping $9! The matching vintage craftsman drill was laying next to it for another $3. I cleaned both up inside and out. The press is smooth and depending how lightly I squeeze the drill trigger it barely spins to full throttle completely pressed. My plan is to put a hose clamp or zip tie around the drill handle and trigger. I’ll tighten the clamp, or tie, till I get the RMP I prefer. It does have a trigger lock. I’ll have to see if it spins to fast locked into position first. I’ll then plug the cord into a power strip so I can turn the power on and off with a flip of a switch. Hopefully the drill holds up for a while. I took it completely apart to lube and clean. If the drill eventually gives up its ghost I have a few corded and cordless drills laying around. If it works it will save me calling my buddy to make arrangements to use his and driving 8 blocks to use his drill press along with my 4 pin roller. I only load a couple dozen 10 gauge a year at most so I would assume it will last a long time. I will have to see if I can find some old directions to make sure I have it mounted correctly and to make sire I’m not missing any parts.

[Cory Rams]

I played with the drill enough now that the points are not catching properly. It seems to vary its speeds up and down by itself and then shut off. I’ll stick one of my modern drills in the press for the time being.

[Keith Doty]

A "Wall Hanger", will look great on the wall in the garage! But I think you did well on the press. I was looking for something similar a while back and found mostly import junk. Certainly nothing as well built as that old Craftsman. That thing will wear out a couple of drills and still be kickin'.

[Cory Rams]

I almost passed on the drill to begin with but grabbed it because it was laying next to the press. Your right about that press. It’s built like a tank. Figured it will outlast me. I looked at some of modern presses that accept a drill. They look like dollar store imports that would probably not make it through a session of crimping before it failed.

[edgarspencer]

Corey, I can't remember if you said, but you may be better off with a newer drill if you're rolling plastic hulls. Speed helps get the case lip warm for a nice turnover, and as well as they were made, the older corded drills don't turn up all too fast.

[Cory Rams]

Yep, I’m doing plastic hulls. Been reloading modern 2 7/8” RST spent hulls for my Charles Daly SxS 10 gauge and also 3.5” 10 gauge for my browning gold Turkey federation 10 gauge with modern spent 3.5” Winchester and federal plastic hulls. . Appreciate the tip. Was pulling my hair out to get the drill working. Won’t sweat it now. I have a newer craftsman I bought about 4/5 years ago that’s corded. Also have a cordless craftsman. The corded one will go in place of it. It has a good amount of torque.