Recut checkering on Parker forend

[Dean Romig]

I like it!!





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[Tom Flanigan]

Originally Posted by Cameron Thraen

Just thinking ahead. Any advice on using alkanet root as a stain on this Parker? I have read quite a lot on AR as a stain to get that red tone but I am not sure about using it on my 1893 Parker? I do not make my own of course but am aware that a product by S.B. McWilliams can be purchased on eBay. Looking for your advice. Thanks.

A note: On my project gun from last winter (Leftover G S#47216: Stock repair- yikes on the Double gun forum) I used Brownell's Pilkington spirit stain and then multiple hand rubbed coats of Velvit Oil. Turned out very satisfactory.

I use alkanat root oil that I made up years ago. I have a lifetime supply. I took alkanet roots from England and boiled them, on a stove, in linseed oil with Japan drier added. My method of finishing a stock using the alkanet oil is to fill all of the pores first and then wipe down with the alkanet oil and let dry for at least 24 hours. I do additional coats if necessary. I don't mix alkanet oil with the coats of final finish since, I believe, that it dulls the impact of the grain with multiple coats of finish. Putting alkanet oil on before the final finishing seems to work fine and the grain continues to stand out.

[Larry Mason]

Outstanding Cameron!! This has been great. Thanks to all.

[Foster Myers III]

Really well thought out! Thank you for sharing this idea, love it.

[Campchair]

Originally Posted by Cameron Thraen

The mullered border. On my forend this border is completely or nearly filled with finish. Without giving away hard earned trade secrets any advice on how to go about removing this finish and restoring this border?

I found that Gunline makes a cutter that was almost a perfect match for the mullered border on the last Parker I re-checkered.

[Keavin Nelson]

Originally Posted by Cameron Thraen

Keavin, thank you. As I am refurbishing and not redoing, as in sanding and replacing, your advice is very useful. Can you be more specific as to the acrylic gel? Are you referencing something along the lines of a glue? Or AcraGlas? Or something from the art world? Again, thanks.

I purchase it from Woodcraft store locally.

[Campchair]

On the oil soaked stock, Whiting, mixed with just enough Acetone to make a thick slurry or paste, will draw it out. Acetone is not a solvent for shellac. Shellac has the ability to "layer" very well, so that any patching of thin or worn spots will adhere very well. Use the "De-waxed" flakes and mix in a glass screw-top jar. It can be mixed ahead and seems to keep for quite a while. Use an inexpensive pure bristle brush as the acetone WILL destroy almost any synthetic bristle throwaway brush. It doesn't seem to affect natural dye type stains that much, but try it in an out of the way place first.

[Cameron Thraen]

Well, after a long, cold and snowy winter followed by a hot-cold-hot-wet spring then the same for summer here in central Ohio, my 1893 Parker GH project is now completed. The barrels are back home, looking top-shelf fantastic, reunited with the recheckered fore-end, mullered border, all lines recut with fresh shellac, and the cleaned stock/receiver. This was a fun project and now it's back in the safe until autumn.

Here are a few photos to close out this thread.

Pheasants starting in September and woodcock in November await. Quail to follow next April. To all who helped with advice and encouraging comments along the journey, my hearty thank you.

[winplumber]

Nice looking gun

[Dean Romig]

Nicely done - Bravo!





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