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Unread 12-06-2012, 06:45 PM   #1
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I just removed the stock and was pleased to see that the serial number matched. Along with the serial, 'P.B.' and a '0' (zero) are stamped in the wood. Is 'P.B.' marked on all stocks, or does it signify repair or rework of some sort? TPS had nothing on these marks. There is a 1/4" hairline crack that will be stabilized with Acraglas, otherwise, the wood is great! Thank goodness for no rust, unlike my previous NH. Lotsa dirt, seeds, twigs and an insect, though. Even though the plant matter and bug were miniscule, I wonder how they got in there
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Unread 12-07-2012, 06:09 AM   #2
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They probably snuck in through the firing pin bores.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 12:05 PM   #3
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Wow! I thought the last NH was the dirtiest gun I ever owned......this gun is horrible! Upon my initial examination, it appears as though the entire interior of the receiver, moving parts included, was coated with some sort of varnish or shellac. I mean every tiny nook and cranny. There was so much dirt and crud built up and compressed under moving parts I am surprised it functioned as well as it did. I am soaking and scraping in layers. I feel like an archaeologist!

The auto safety actuating push rod is semi-seized in the wood. Has anyone removed the spacer to gain access to the little push rod? Will it simply unscrew?

I am still curious about the 'P.B.' and '0' stamped by the stock serial. Cheers!
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Unread 12-08-2012, 12:58 PM   #4
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The spacer will unscrew but be sure to use the proper sized screwdriver. You can damage the wood if the screwdriver is too large. The spacer has threads only on the top 1/4 " or so. You will have to drive or pull it out when the threads are out of the wood. Be careful. Cheers, Tom
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Unread 12-11-2012, 09:53 AM   #5
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Building a 12 1/2 lb gun with steel tubes probably stretched Parker Bros. ability to produce it since the suppliers could not or would not do a one off order for steel that thick within the 32" length. The twist steel ribbons were probably still lying about as excess inventory. So they were utilized to fill the order and the #6 frame was built to handle the excess weight hanging on the hinge pin and the lockup system. Talk about going the extra mile to fill an order. I would in interested in knowing the difference, if any, between the NH on a #3 frame and the #6 bolt-to-slot locking system, hinge pin size and doll's head dimensions.

This oversize example provides evidence that in the olden days manufacturers valued their customers above and beyond today's standard. The gun was ordered for a buyer that lived, in 1903, in a still existing hamlet 28 miles SW of Columbus, GA. The largest body of navigable water is the Chattahoochee River between Columbus and Phenix City Al. A fur piece to go for river ducks. Maybe its intention is to be used for upland birds such as quail or turkeys.

This could add another redneck joke to the repertoire of Jeff Foxworthy. "You might be a redneck if your quail gun weighs more than 12 pounds and you never come home with birds suitable for eating."

Last edited by John Farrell; 12-11-2012 at 10:06 AM.. Reason: William Strunk jr and E.B. White
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Unread 12-11-2012, 11:41 AM   #6
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The cocking crank has an extra component. I will take a photo today. The receiver has an extra piece fastened to the upper tang, by a screw (hidden beneath the top lever), to take up space between the top of the bolt lever and the receptacle where it pivots. I will take a photo of that, also. My theory about a market hunter shooting a bazillion cartridges per day fell by the wayside when I found the little town on a map.
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Unread 12-11-2012, 02:46 PM   #7
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Here is the cocking crank and its extra pivoting part.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100_1807.jpg (434.8 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 100_1808.jpg (490.6 KB, 5 views)
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Unread 12-11-2012, 03:50 PM   #8
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Very interesting Mark. Learn something new everyday. Can you post a picture of it installed so that we may see how it works?
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Unread 12-12-2012, 11:17 AM   #9
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I most certainly will, Dave.
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Unread 12-21-2012, 02:52 PM   #10
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I'll bet if you use a cotton swab with some linseed oil and just brush the inside of the push rod hole you will have sufficient protection for the future. As to the patina, I've been using a diluted molasses sit-in-it-for-awhile bath to remove light rust and discoloration on various tools, devices and rube goldberg thingies that get old looking through no fault of mine.
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