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#3 | ||||||
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I bought the PHE from a gun dealer, it has two brass screws coming thru the rib where the lug was re soldered years ago, I know it can be repaired but it looks kind of neet to go with its age, and it shoots great at trap , 30 inch full and full. Mine is a 1 1/2 Frame
PDD |
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#4 | ||||||
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Randy, here is what I would do and I'm assuming the gun has sentimental value to you and you want to keep it, not sell it.
To me the gun looks like it's a canidate for restoring, assuming that the barrels are in good condition. You have great looking wood for a P grade except for the forend, and the screws look good. The gun was willed to you so you don't have any money in the gun from purchasing it. The money spent to restore it would be recouped if you ever decide to sell it. Mimimum I would do is replace the forend wood. If you want to go farther, have the metal recase colored. This would require the engraving to be picked up but a P grade has minimal engraving so that shouldn't be too expensive. I'd also have the engraver file down the trigger guard to remove the name and reengrave it. You may also want the barrels reblued depending on the amount of original blueing remaining. Lastly, you could refinish the stock by yourself which with a little bit of practice, it would turn out nice. I have no idea how much this would cost but I think you would recover your cost if you ever sell it. I'd send it to Brad Bachelder in Michigan for an estimate. |
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#5 | ||||||
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A 1921 PHE Parker Steel 16ga has been my go-to gun since the early 1970's. If photos are needed showing how one should look, let me know.
A new ejector forend is expensive to make because of all the inletting work involved. A proper P forend has a different checkering pattern than a V or G. TPS shows that there were 14,230 P grade with Twist and 1,339 with Parker Steel. Although Parker Steel P's are uncommon, I am not sure that there are any historical sales figures that demonstrate an increased value or desireability over the next closest grades except in the unusual piece, like a .410. While there may be a slight added interest or special comment, I doubt that translates to higher value. Gauge, grade and condition dictate and the P is close to the V. Bruce Day, Parker beginner and non expert |
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#7 | ||||||
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I agree Pete. I think Bruce just wants to see if we are paying attention...
__________________
"Much care is bestowed to make it what the Sportsman needs-a good gun"-Charles Parker |
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#8 | ||||||
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It will not be an impossible task to find a forearm wood for an ejector #2 frame gun. Advertise here and on the doublegunshop site and you will probably find a forearm wood in short order.
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#9 | ||||||
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Brian, sorry I pulled a fast one on you. One of the pictures of the PHE showed a little piece of a "P" on the barrel flat indicating that the barrels were Parker Steel. Pittypatdugan, I sold a PHE steel barrel gun for $950 in line waiting to get into the Louisville show a few years ago. Were you the guy who bought that gun?
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#10 | ||||||
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I am working on the name on the trigger gaurd. I'm going to do a little more research on that. I am not sure if it was a long lost relative or what as this gun was willed to me by a great grandfather.
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