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LC Smith Ideal grade Advice Please
Unread 03-26-2024, 11:37 AM   #1
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Dean Romig
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Default LC Smith Ideal grade Advice Please

Dorothy inherited her grandfather’s beautiful 1914 Ideal grade and everything is in 90%+ original condition.

Problem is… the safety is immovable and the rear trigger is stuck all the way back and the left firing pin is stuck protruding out from the breech face.

I have no experience with the mechanics of a Smith and haven’t even removed the lock plates… Should I? Anything to be careful of?

Chambers both measure exactly 2 7/8” deep and the chokes are Rt. 4” long with muzzle constriction of .028” with the Lt. choke is 5” long with a muzzle constriction of .041”

How common is it that a LC Smith 12 has 2 7/8” chambers??
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Unread 03-26-2024, 11:48 AM   #2
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Your root issue is the trigger being stuck up. In that position, the safety cannot move out of the rearward position (3 position safety). And that barrel will not cock.

Likely the issue is the trigger blade being dirty and gummed up or something.
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Unread 03-26-2024, 12:14 PM   #3
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Thanks Brian - is there anything to be especially careful of in removing the lock plates?
Removing Parker hammer gun lick plates is really simple with only 1 pitfall.





.
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Unread 03-26-2024, 02:39 PM   #4
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Ten years after your gun was made they stamped the water table of the barrels
"Chambers'
3
"Inches"
This is when the Long Range Wild Fowl Gun was introduced.
-Brett
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Unread 03-26-2024, 02:43 PM   #5
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I would try to see if you can pry down the rear trigger and see if it will come down so that you can cock the gun. I would not want to try and pull the lock plates when the hammer is uncocked. It could cause wood damage.
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Unread 03-26-2024, 02:44 PM   #6
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Being that this is a Featherweight frame, I would think it to not have long chambers like that.
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Unread 03-26-2024, 03:17 PM   #7
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What a mess Dean

The arms of the cocking rods are visible protruding from the knuckle, and can be used to cock the hammers even with the barrels in place



You can't fit a wrench, so use a long screwdriver (for leverage) with a thin blade with a layer of electrical tape. Use the other arm to lever DOWN the opposite arm



The R arm is down and the R hammer cocked. You will feel and hear a distinct 'click' and it does take some force. Then cock the L hammer.



If you can't lever the cocking arm at all, it's time for a Smith specialist.

Once the hammers are cocked, remove the barrels.
There might be a 'CHAMBER 2 7/8' (not the later football) mark on the flats



There are disassembly and reassembly instructions on the FAQs, including removing the sideplates.
https://lcsca.clubexpress.com/conten...&club_id=43784

The lifter needs to be down when reattaching the sideplates



and be sure the hammers are cocked to reattach the sideplates AND to reattach the FE

Please let us know how it goes.

Do NOT remove the trigger plate if you've never replaced the trigger plate - angels fear to tread the innards of Smith guns
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Unread 03-26-2024, 03:24 PM   #8
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Thanks Soo much Drew!

And Thank You to everyone who have offered suggestions.





.
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Unread 03-26-2024, 04:30 PM   #9
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Dean, I'd drop it off with Dan Cullity & Son.
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Unread 03-26-2024, 04:56 PM   #10
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Nice looking LCS.
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