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I used my press last night, I think the slowest speed is around 1100 rpm. I did better than by hand, but a bit uneven and choppy. Of course these were previously 8pt crimped hulls so that's not ideal to begin with.
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Nothing ruins your Friday like finding out it's only Tuesday |
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Ive had alittle luck roll crimping I just started a few months ago. I think roll crimping is one of those things everyone has their own tips and tricks that works best for them. I read the 16 ga reloaders say they get the best results 60-120rpms, but you're not going to find a drill press that slow most likely. I have come up with a few ideas to get a better roll but I havnt tested them yet.
Last edited by Milton C Starr; 05-13-2025 at 06:46 PM.. |
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Thanks for that info Milton,
I’m in search of an older drill press as we speak, have wanted to buy a general purpose drill press for my small shop for awhile now. I’m looking for a good one, if you know of one, let me know. Stan |
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Im thinking perhaps a easy way to do it is when roll crimping to just pop the driven pulley off and find something like one of these wheels and hand turn it. I noticed with my PR crimper it doesnt like any sort of lubrication in fact it wont even begin to crimp but the BPI seems to work either way. The above green hulls are 8 gauge Remingtons I did with the BPI cant remember if I used the drill press or hand drill. I have rolled crimped one old paper hull maybe from the 1970s with the BPI crimper with a hand drill. It worked but the old paper and the jagged way I cut the old crimp didnt look the best. I ordered some expensive custom paper hulls last week I might try something different crimping those they are to expensive to mess up haha.
If you wanted to get real simple id buy a hand crank drill attach it to a drill guide and do it that way. Really when you break it down you just need something that can hold a 1/2" chuck horizontally stable at a slow speed, I think anyway you could achieve that with a hand crank would probably work best. Or if these are just going to be used in a sxs or any break open gun run down to the local Dollar General and buy a hot glue gun or tube of duco cement. It really depends if you care how pretty they look you get better case mouth life using a glued in overshot card. Me personally I dont care as I get rid of them after 1 firing as I like my ammo to look pretty ![]() Last edited by Milton C Starr; 05-13-2025 at 06:46 PM.. |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Milton C Starr For Your Post: |
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Thanks Edgar for your thorough explanation of how you do roll crimping and all the helpful tips.
And thanks to you also Milt, I appreciate all the knowledge I can pick up on this great forum. As they say, Life is to short to learn only from your own mistakes, learning from other peoples mistakes is a plus ![]() Thanks to this thread, the roll crimpers that I did buy are the ones produced by Nick Ross, so now the search for a good press will start. I love when I have an excuse to buy something that I've been wanting for a while. Thanks again, Stan |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Stan Hoover For Your Post: |
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When I was old enough to take a gun out by myself, the only shotshells were paper, and loading paper hulls was initially my attempt to recreate the smell and nostalgia. I began rolling my own when I found a nice old hand roller. Since then I learned there's more to it, but, like Milton, I like my shells to look nice too.
Apart from the appearance, rolling gives advantages in lower pressures for old guns. I've pattern tested lots of these, and found that overshot cards need to as thin as practical in order not to skew the pattern. or, doughnut hole them. Another detail of importance is that the roll be physically uniform all the way around. If not, the mouth opens up first at the point of least resistance, and the pattern is skewed. The depth of the roll does not need to be any more than what it takes to do a complete 180 degree turn. More, and it builds pressure opening up the mouth; Less, and there's the risk the loaded shell will pop the card loose and spill the shot. Plastic hulls need reconditioning after fired. Reloaded paper hulls are never as pretty as they were new. All I need now is time to get out and empty a mess of these shells. |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to edgarspencer For Your Post: |
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Anyone using a “portable drill press” or “drill guide” versus a dedicated drill press? Ie one that you use a hand held drill in? Like one of these? How is your experience with them?
https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-13...s%2C146&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/BEAMNOVA-Benc...%2C146&sr=8-17
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Just getting started with Parkers: 1877 10g Lifter 1904 12g VH 1925 12g Pachmyr GHE |
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One thing I was going to add was touched on by Edgar, allow the tool/hull to warm up before applying the pressure to work in the roll crimp. That is key. The other is the condition of the hull mouth. Can't have any fold crimp remnants left over or the roll will be very ugly. That never happened to me, but I did read about it once!
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Mike Koneski For Your Post: |
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