Recut checkering on Parker forend

[Cameron Thraen]

Just a note to those interested. The checkering on this 1893 G grade Parker appears to be 22 lpi.

[Craig Budgeon]

You have not got it. The cylinder of wood is perpendicular to the forend iron and is at a 45 degree angle to the plane formed by the centerline of both bores. Take a concave cardboard template of the 1 1/2 dia. and place it below the divot, so that all the damage is exposed, then draw a pencil line below it using the template as your guide. the area above the pencil line is the part your going to replace. By sanding at a 45 you reduce fitting time, it reduces mistakes, and is easier to hide. Matching the wood and grain are as important as the fit of the sliver. If you have an old buttstock,that matches, take a 1 1/2" holesaw and drill a hole through it. The waste will provide you with your sliver. Good Luck!

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, now I think I have the image in my head. I was fixed on adding a sliver along the axis line of the forend margin. And I now understand why a walnut dowel will not work. I have a supply of walnut 1" blanks that I will use to cut out my 1.5" piece. I will mock up what I now visualize and post a photo before proceeding. Again thanks for your time and help.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, in the photo: on the right the 1.5 " diameter tool to sand the divot at 45 degrees. On the left the stock for the sliver to be glued in the sanded divot and shaped. Looking at the photo do I have this correct? If I now have it correct I will practice on an orphan forend piece before any attempt on my Parker wood. It is a long winter here and I have time to go slow.

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron, it looks like you are headed in the right direction. However your sliver selection could be improved color wise. I do understand that photographs can be misleading and you are the final judge.

[Cameron Thraen]

Craig, working on the color match. There is a shadow on the forend making it appear much darker. I have another question. Is the glue side of the sliver cut to match the angle of 45 degrees of the radius after sanding out the divot? Makes sense to me but I am not clear on this point.

[Craig Budgeon]

No, you make the sliver a generous oversize and concern yourself with making the glue oint perfect. Remember the finished repair is going to be very small and the grain is going in the correct direction.

[Cameron Thraen]

Got it. I will mock up one and practice before attacking the actual Parker repair.

Thanks, I appreciate your help. I am certain this will be appreciated by many other folks with dinged for end margins thinking of a proper repair.

[Cameron Thraen]

Getting closer.

[Cameron Thraen]

Parker forend cleaned and ready for grain sealing, nicks filled, finish applied.


Checkering to be recut




Fun.