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#3 | ||||||
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Good exchange of ideas, I picked up a few new tricks.
Couple of points my side Plastic of any kind does not mix well with Black Powder, However if I did not have paper hulls would use Plastic, and toss them after one loading. Plastic wad of any kind is going to cause trouble. My 1876 Lifter was probably chambered for Brass shells. However Paper works fine. Brass is good but volume I load, 150+ at a time, enough for a full round of clays, cost is an issue. And you have to clean the brass hulls after firing, paper I toss. One of my Schuetzen Rifles in 32/40 I run on RMC turned brass cases and they work very well. Been using the same 20 cases since 1996. Reload them at the range while shooting. Brass is not a bad way to go. Whatever you use make sure the wads fit the case. I am probably over cleaning = wiping while shooting. However long time with Muzzle Loaders, Schuetzen Rifles and Black Powder Cartridge Rifles clean bores are a critical issue, and topic hotly debated among competitors. Methods, lubes, powder brands etc. Thing about black powder is sometimes it will fowl other times shoot long strings without wiping. It's very dependent on the Ambient conditions. Hot dry day they need to be wiped, damp cool, less so. Shoot a few rounds it's not obvious, long strings best be prepared to wipe the bores. You could pattern, clean bore, then again after 40 - 50 rounds and probably prove something one way or the other, however I go with my rifle methods even if they may not be needed with the shot shell. Considering case separation with old paper cases you need to have a rod handy anyhow. William |
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#4 | ||||||
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+1 on how much fun you are going to have. You'll get a lot of pleasure shooting the exact components your gun was designed for.
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#5 | ||||||
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Mike, thanks for the Roll Tide. There seems to be fairly large number of Alabama fans in Pa as there are Penn State fans in Alabama. It all goes back to the WELL deserved mutual respect that Coach Bryant and Coach Paterno had for each other. Now on to lesser important things such as bp shooting and loading. The Heritage event at the Southern this year was the first time I have ever shot black powder and I thought they had thrown a parade for me after the first shot. I haven't seen that much confetti falling since the Macy's parade last Thanksgiving. I had to buy the shells at Deep River and I don't even know the brand but they must have used toilet paper for filler wads. I have been fully warned away from plastic wads , but I may use a teflon sleeve and check the barrels for residue from the sleeve. My barrels aren't that perfect on the inside (sorta like a Cambodian minefield) so it has been recommended that the teflon sleeve might alleviate the issues there. I am supposed to get my ffg tomorrow so I will load up and give reports to anyone interested. Jim Garrett
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#6 | ||||||
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Jim
My Lifters barrels are pretty rough inside too, however the wipe routine and a soap and water clean up with a good brushing is all it needs. I don't know that Teflon is bad with BP but don't know it's ok either. Way I brush my rough barrels is wrap of 0000 Steel Wool around a bronze brush. Have a rod that's fitted for a power screwdriver. Rotate under power for a few seconds, cleans up nice. William |
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#7 | ||||||
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William, another way to clean bores is to use a Chambermate brush made by Kleen Bore and I also put it on a cleaning rod powdered by a chordless drill with shooter choice on it and make a few passes down the barrels. I use a newer brush for the chambers and forcing cones and an older, more worn, brush for the barrels. After the scrub I then cut a blue shop paper towel in 4ths and wrap a 4th around a Tornado brush for a few passes. I shoot quite a bit of sporting clays and this is the cleaning process for my Perazzis. With the bore sizes of the 1880 Parkers you can probably use a new chamber brush with no problem. By the way, I don't use the drill with the paper towel, as it is just a straight push thru. In addition to the hot soapy water cleaning I will probably use a black powder solvent and Butches has always been good for centerfires. Jim
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#8 | ||||||
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Jim
That's exactly my routine 1/4 shop towel and all. While the Lifter has a rough bore shooing it with quality shot I don't think it's as hard to clean as my Modern Beretta O/U after a long session with cheap promo 12 G shells. I think soft shot leads more than high antimony and the lead is hard to get out. Super slick hard barrels show lead better too. It's really no chore to clean BP guns just different. One thing you will want to do with Black Powder is clean, then come back next day and wipe the bores with some solvent or oil. Often the clean bores will show some rust day after cleaning, Does not take a lot of wiping but best not put it away for a long period without checking. Other thing I have always done with my BP guns is wax the exterior, simple paste floor wax rubbed on and quick hand buff. My Minnie Ball Rifle with a new made barrel and no barrel finish at all is still bright inside and out after 30 + years, all that's been done to it is clean with hot soapy water, oil down, then next day wipe the bores 2nd time, finish by taking the oil off the outside and waxing William |
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| heads up |
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#9 | ||||||
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Paul, I have shot with Pat and no question. , he is one of the best. Most of the high rib shooters like to float the clay as they say that they can keep their eye on the bird. I have tried floating the bird but that method gives me problems on certain presentations. I took lessons from Wendell Cherry and he said the most important thing to remember is to "watch the rings" ie keep your eye on the clay. I have also found that to be the hardest thing to do. Jim
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#10 | ||||||
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Jim, you'll just have to learn to shoot " head up, " not out and down like modern shooters do. Keep your weight the same on both feet, not more on the front, and you'll naturally shoot a gun with more drop. Good luck - Paul
__________________
Paul Harm |
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