Parker Brothers 12 Gauge SxS......Help.......Pics!

[Bill Murphy]

That $850 gun can get to $500 real quick by trying to clean it up.

[Greg Franklin]

Originally Posted by hugh rather

This forum contains detailed instructions for cleaning and disassembly

Where would I find them? I have tried the search function with no success.

[Autumn Daze]

Greg, Go to the home page...Go to FAQ....Tenth question down should help you out.

How about joining the PGCA?....

[Bruce Day]

The principal cause of damage to Parkers is amateur messing with them.

[william weber]

I recommended the maroon color. The color tells you what the abrasive quality is. Maroon is a very light abrasive. I agree if you use the wrong color it will scratch.

[John D.]

Hi guys,

I'm on the road but Greg, I'm so sorry for the difficulties! Dave is right, it's not closed to members only. Let me take a look when I get back (I'm traveling and writing this from my iPhone), ok? As well, Robin has done simply a fantastic job at pulling together the reference areas of the PGCA website for everyone, so maybe Robin can take a look as well?

Anyway- so sorry for any difficulties at all..!

John

[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by John Dunkle

Robin has done simply a fantastic job at pulling together the reference areas of the PGCA website for everyoneJohn

You can say that again!

[Greg Franklin]

Thanks guys.

[Old and Reliable]

I concur 100% with the previous posts re: strip and cleaning a Parker Hammerless double, whether it is an ejector or extractor gun. And I favor OOOO grade steel wool and both Kroil thinned slightly with acetone or WD-40, plus Hoppe's No. 9 and Rem Oil aerosol.

Old Boy Scout survival tip- carry several wads of OOOO steel wool in your emergency firestarting kit- it has just enough oil in its composition to aid in starting a fire, that same oil will also assist in removing minor crud and rust. An older typewriter eraser- hard to find in today's non-typewriter using era, soaked in Hoppe's is also a mild abrasive and can work.

The heads of all the machine screws seen on your Parker are one of the many things Parker experts examine when appraising your gun. Indexing or clocking of the screw head slots, meaning they all faced in the same direction (like 12 to 6 o'clcok) and no mars or boogered slots.

Those two "no-no's" are a sure sign of a ham fisted amateur trying to field strip a Parker (or other fine doublegun). I would wait for the posting on the FAQ from John Dunkle, and also suggest you spend a few $ on at least two things: a duplicate set of Grace hardened and ground gunsmith screwdrivers (you won't fine any Phillips head tips in their mix- Brownell's is a good source, also Midway)-- reason for the second set- because that way you have enough to allow you to grind the shank and tip, if needed to an exact fit for special screws you may encounter. Most have a tapered slot, and the closer to perfect fit you have with your "turnscrew" the less chance you have of a slip and mar result- NOT GOOD.

Second is a set of small magnets- as all Parker metal parts (except perhaps the sight beads) are from forged steel, magnets are perfect for your gun bench to keep small machine screws, pins, springs etc. from getting lost.

A well padded vise, a gunsmith soft tip or brass hammer, various drift and pin punches- and a lot of patience are also important.

If you have a competent gunsmith in your area that is quaified to work on Parker guns, perhaps you could offer to pay him for a "hands on dis-assembly/re-assembly" drill- not a complete tear down to all parts, but enough so you can clean and inspect your gun with a solid degree of confidence.

[John D.]

Robin has done simply a fantastic job at pulling together the reference areas of the PGCA website for everyone John