Brass Shell Loading:

[Bruce P Bruner]

Paul is correct. My only deviation is using Sodium Silicate to seal the over shot card. Using a syringe I cover the entire card. This provides resistance for a faster more complete burn and ensures the shell is waterproof. For 16 gauge about 8 drops is enough.

[Jay Oliver]

Bruce, I enjoyed seeing your pictures and hearing how you reload brass shotshells. I always enjoy doing this and have had fun experimenting with loads and wad to find the best pattern. While I usually just shoot clay targets, I do like hunting with brass shells as well. Very easy to make a bismuth shell for waterfowl hunting too. Thanks for the pictures and starting this thread!

Jeff, I saw the Parker loading tool on Ebay as well. I thought about as well, but thought it was a little to pricy just like you. You really don’t “need” any of those(though I like collecting them), you can get by with a wooden dowel and a small nail to knock out the used primers. There are few ways to prime the shells and you can find cappers on Ebay. For the 12 gauge I like the shells from Track of the Wolf, but use Magtechs too. For 10s I used the Track of the Wolf ones. Here is a great video from Midway on loading 10 gauge brass shells. I will note, I have found I get better patterns with felt wads or I will split a ½ inch fiber wad in two and just use half of it. I also use Duco Cement to glue the overshot cards. Here the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI47bl2h0cU

I would love to put together a Parker hammer gun, brass shell black powder hunt this fall…

[jeffery c]

I got 39 of these brass cases to today from Richard!
A few questions come to mind as I get started:
Should I anneal the necks? How do you remove the factory roll crimp? Should I anneal the ends and use a plumb bob tapped in to remove the roll crimp. Lastly, what primers and wads should I use? — Looks like large rifle and 11 gauge, is that right? Should I use magnum primers for black powder?
Thanks!
By the way, I remember when they used to sell water glass at the grocery store. I never knew what for, maybe canning, or something to do with sealing cardboard boxes?

[Bruce P Bruner]

I will attempt to answer some of your questions.
I didn't see factory roll crimps in your photo. I have one empty vintage brass case with a big roll crimp, I haven't a clue how to remove it.
Annealing is a good precaution for case life. That said I haven't had any split cases, but my loads are very mild.
Supplies:
I use Large Pistol Primers, I don't believe Magnum Primers are necessary. The consensus on Magnum Primers for BPCR is they should not be used for numerous negative reasons. Perhaps in subzero temperatures?
For 12 Gauge:
Circle Fly brand Wads:
11 Gauge 1/8" Nitro Cards. However they are not a tight fit and "perhaps" using 10 Gauge would be a better fit. I'm ordering some just to find out.
11 Gauge Fiber Wads. They fit tight in my hulls.
10 Gauge Over Shot Cards.
I use a variety of Black Powder, Goex FFg, Old Eynsford 1-1/2 or FFg, mostly whatever I have on hand. Sometimes I go cheap and use Graf & Sons brand. I also use the "Holy Black" in BPCR so my inventory varies.
Your favorite method to seal the Overshot Cards.
Make sure the primer pockets are prepped. When the Primer is properly inserted they must be flush with the case head. If they stick up you would stress the shotgun & worse when closing the action or fireing, not good. The vintage original brass have only needed cleaning in my experience. The Magtech are hit and miss. Their 12"s didn't require much preparation. The 16's: Needed to uniform the flash holes, they were too small to be able to remove the primer after fireing. They also weren't deep enough or big enough around. With proper tools all of those defects can be overcome.
Others will give you additional help, I'm sure.

[charlie cleveland]

my 8 ga resizer looks like these tools.....nice find....charlie

[Eric Johanen]

I lube clean hulls and tap them into the die flush with the base using a rawhide mallet and tap them out with a wood dowel that is a good fit inside the hull. I have not annealed the hulls as I do not use any crimp just secure the overshot card with Duco cement. (clean the interior with a copper fitting cleaning brush to remove any left over glue residue). After many uses I have had a few show a small split at the mouth and even fewer with a split down the hull. There have been very few failures and they will last for many reloads. I use these some in 3 hammer guns so the size die is necessary for me. Look for them as they will show up now and then. Great fun using them with black powder!

[jeffery c]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32457571772...kAAOSwv45geftj

Regarding sizing dies does anyone have an idea if these are actually sizing dies and what brand these might be?

[Paul Harm]

I used one or another Mec presses to reload brass shells, and for that reason I used 10ga OP and OS cards. Used the 11ga cushion wads. From shooting muzzle loaders for over 50 years a tight fit was usually used. To get a tight fit with Magtecks a 11ga wad, OP and OS, weren't getting the job done. There's a mechanical advantage when using the Mec that allowed using two sizes bigger wads. Just my experience.