Parker Brothers 12 Gauge SxS......Help.......Pics!

[John D.]

Robin has done simply a fantastic job at pulling together the reference areas of the PGCA website for everyone John

[Dean Romig]

[Greg Franklin]

Thanks guys.

I concur 100% with the previous posts re: strip and cleaning a Parker Hammerless double, whether it is an ejector or extractor gun. And I favor OOOO grade steel wool and both Kroil thinned slightly with acetone or WD-40, plus Hoppe's No. 9 and Rem Oil aerosol.

Old Boy Scout survival tip- carry several wads of OOOO steel wool in your emergency firestarting kit- it has just enough oil in its composition to aid in starting a fire, that same oil will also assist in removing minor crud and rust. An older typewriter eraser- hard to find in today's non-typewriter using era, soaked in Hoppe's is also a mild abrasive and can work.

The heads of all the machine screws seen on your Parker are one of the many things Parker experts examine when appraising your gun. Indexing or clocking of the screw head slots, meaning they all faced in the same direction (like 12 to 6 o'clcok) and no mars or boogered slots.

Those two "no-no's" are a sure sign of a ham fisted amateur trying to field strip a Parker (or other fine doublegun). I would wait for the posting on the FAQ from John Dunkle, and also suggest you spend a few $ on at least two things: a duplicate set of Grace hardened and ground gunsmith screwdrivers (you won't fine any Phillips head tips in their mix- Brownell's is a good source, also Midway)-- reason for the second set- because that way you have enough to allow you to grind the shank and tip, if needed to an exact fit for special screws you may encounter. Most have a tapered slot, and the closer to perfect fit you have with your "turnscrew" the less chance you have of a slip and mar result- NOT GOOD.

Second is a set of small magnets- as all Parker metal parts (except perhaps the sight beads) are from forged steel, magnets are perfect for your gun bench to keep small machine screws, pins, springs etc. from getting lost.

A well padded vise, a gunsmith soft tip or brass hammer, various drift and pin punches- and a lot of patience are also important.

If you have a competent gunsmith in your area that is quaified to work on Parker guns, perhaps you could offer to pay him for a "hands on dis-assembly/re-assembly" drill- not a complete tear down to all parts, but enough so you can clean and inspect your gun with a solid degree of confidence.

[Bindlestiff]

Originally Posted by Greg Franklin

Thank you; becoming a member is one of my goals for the year. When I go to the FAQ, all I get is a search page, which yields zip when I try disassembly, cleaning, etc. ?

I looked at this and it looks like the instructions that I found and linked to in google books was changed and the instructions are no longer available. I removed the FAQ link to the google book.

[Opening Day]

Originally Posted by Mark Landskov

If you try bronze wool and gun oil, or No. 9 solvent, you will be surprised at how much crud you can take off without damaging the aged patina and/or bluing. I use brass scrapers for scaly rust, followed by the bronze wool. Good luck. Cheers!

Mark,
Where can you find bronze wool? I've looked for it and haven't been able to find it. Eric

[Tom Will]

I generally find it in the old hardware stores. Not every one has it , but it's a good place to start and the smallest I can find is fine. There is fine /med and coarse. Mine is made by Homax. I've never been on their site but it's on the package, www.homaxproducts.com Hope this helps. If you can't find it let me know and I'll mail you a pad. A small amount goes pretty far.
Tom

[Opening Day]

Thanks Tom I will check around and maybe look on the web, if not I may take you up on your offer. Thanks Eric

[Tom Will]

I went past the hardware store that I generally find the bronze wool and stopped in. I bought a 3 pad pack for $7.54. If you want me to send it to you let me know. I believe my email is in my information.
Tom