MEC 9000GN

[Mike of the Mountain]

Jerry, those spacers will not work on the progressive presses. The turret revolves with each pull of the handle to advance the hulls. Those spacers work on the 600 Jr because you are manually moving a single hull from station to station.

[6pt-Sika]

Probably the easiest but a bit more costly is to order a new PW 800 Plus and when ordering tell them you want it set for 2 !/2" shells which they'll be happy to do for you for an additional $35-50 dollars on top of the cost of the press .

[J. A. EARLY]

Originally Posted by Mike Koneski

Jerry, those spacers will not work on the progressive presses. The turret revolves with each pull of the handle to advance the hulls. Those spacers work on the 600 Jr because you are manually moving a single hull from station to station.

Mike,

Yes, I have four 9000 so this is why I am sure it works. What I wrote is when the shell gets to the first crimping station, pull it out and put the spacer under it. It will follow the shell until the end when it is ejected. Thus one would need to rotate three of them in the three final stages as the machine progresses and ejects the shell. Pull the spacer and put it on the next shell at the crimp station. The shells are easily pulled there at the first crimp station, the spacers fit the shell and the MEC firmly, and should work if the 28 gauge spacer can be made.

[Mike of the Mountain]

I got ya. I thought you were trying to have the spacer follow the hull around the entire turret. If you have to move them like you are saying, I'd just get a 600 Jr and load with it. If you're not looking to do Spolar production numbers, then the Jr would suffice.

[edgarspencer]

My idea for converting my 9000GN works perfectly.

In crimping a 2 1/2" shell in 600Jr press, it's necessary to raise the shell up 1/4". However, that isn't possible on a progressive press. But on the 9000, it isn't possible to either raise the shell, or lower the crimp die.

My idea was to lower only the internal profile of the crimp die(Thanks, Dave), without changing the way the die is secured in the press. The cam needs to still contact the roller on the die.

I accomplished the lowering of the internal die profile, by buying two new Crimp dies. First, I bored out one of the dies, straight thru. I did this by clamping the die on my Bridgeport milling machine, being sure it was aligned vertically. Using a deep hole boring bar, and machining out the entire internal profile.
Next, I took the second new Crimp die, cut off the side mounted arms, and chucking it in my lathe, turned it to a diameter so as to have a sliding, interference fit inside the first, bored out Crimp die. Using a two part epoxy, I cemented in the turned piece into the bored piece, but 1/4" lower.

The only other changes consisted of removing a 1/4" off the bottom of the side mount of the wad guide, and readjusting the spindex pre-crimp die, and the final 'taper die, both down 1/4". There is sufficient thread travel of these two dies.

After installing the new, modified final crimp die, no adjustment to the cam was required.

I ran a few single hulls through the cycle with no issues, so then ran a couple dozen hulls through in the normal manner.
The whole recipe for the 2 1/2" shell is the same as those run on the 600Jr press.
As is often the case with single stage charge bars, the bar on the 9000 also delivers less than the 3/4 ounce that it's supposed to drop, by about 12 pellets (#8), so I just lowered the top punch of the final crimp die. All crimps were satisfactory.
So much for MEC telling me a 9000 won't load a 2 1/2" shell.

[David Noble]

Originally Posted by edgarspencer

My idea was to lower only the internal profile of the trim die, without changing the way the die is secured in the press. The cam needs to still contact the roller on the die.

I accomplished the lowering of the internal die profile, by buying two new trim dies.
Next, I took the second new trim die, cut off the side mounted arms, and chucking it in my lathe, turned it to a diameter so as to have a sliding, interference fit inside the first, bored out trim die.

Edgar, great thinking you did there but I was confused by your use of the term trim die. Perhaps I'm wrong, but should that have said crimp die instead?
I'm prepared to be scolded in the event that I am wrong.

[Jack Kuzepski]

Edgar,
When I load short shells in 12, 16 and 20 gauge I start with once fired 2-3/4" shells that I cut down on my band saw using a jig to 2-1/2". I then load the shell as I normally would as a 2-3/4" shell. However after the shot is dropped, I place an over shot card on top of the pellets. then finish the shell as normal. I don't have to change anything on my press. I do not load 28 gauge but can't see why it wouldn't work.

[edgarspencer]

Originally Posted by Jack Kuzepski

Edgar,
When I load short shells in 12, 16 and 20 gauge I start with once fired 2-3/4" shells that I cut down on my band saw using a jig to 2-1/2". I then load the shell as I normally would as a 2-3/4" shell. However after the shot is dropped, I place an over shot card on top of the pellets. then finish the shell as normal. I don't have to change anything on my press. I do not load 28 gauge but can't see why it wouldn't work.

Jack, I’m not sure I’m following you. I previously loaded all my 2.5” shells (12,16,20 and 28) on one of my 600Jr presses, each with a “short kit”.
I also cut down 2.75” hulls, both ‘once fired’ or, on NPEs, when 2.5” new wasn’t available. I made a ‘guillotine’’jig which gives an edge as good as new. I’ve shown the jig here before, but it simply puts the shell on an adjustable dowel, close the handle with a razor blade enclosed and twist the hull around. Takes about 5 seconds each.
When you say you then reload just as you would a 2.75, you must be using a different wad, because the load would otherwise be about even with the top of the now shortened hull. Impossible to ‘crimp, otherwise.
What press are you using? The crimp die on a 9000 won’t even touch the mouth of a 2.5’’ hull, unmodified. Not following the use of an overshot card either.

My whole point in this exercise is to make my 9000, a gift, do both.
My 2.5” loads are the same shot and powder charges as my 2.75” loads, Except, I use a specific wad for each, not the same for both.

[Jack Kuzepski]

Edgar,
I've rechecked some of my shells, my jig cuts them 2-9/16 not 2-1/2, my mistake. The idea was to load the shells just like a 2-3/4" shell and just before crimping drop an overshot card on the shot charge so the shot would not fall out when the finished crimp was done with the hole that was there from the shortened shell length. With 12 and 16 gauge, it works just fine. I had forgotten that with 20 gauge, it ended up almost like a roll crimp.
I found a pair of factory 28 gauge loaded shells on my loading bench from somewhere and measured the loaded shell length and you are right, there is no room at all for any kind of crimp. Sorry for the confusion.

[Stan Hoover]

Edgar,
I admire your knowledge and perseverance to figure out how to make it work.
Well Done,
Stan