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		#13 | ||||||
 
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			Craig, the last station on your 9000 should taper the mouth of the shell.  Do you use it?
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#14 | ||||||
 
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			Yes I do Chuck. But before I get a good taper it crushes the sts hull. No issue with the gun clubs with exactly the same press settings. I was so frustrated with the sts hulls I called mec technical support.  They offered no suggestions. Maybe the design of the 3/4oz wad???
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#15 | ||||||
 
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			Craig, years ago I loaded a ton of Gun Clubs and then they began to vary in overall length which caused erratic crimps so I switched to STSs.  When first loading the STS I encountered the problem you describe.  The solution was to adjust the press.  I increased the crimp starter a wee bit, adjusted the crimp die to put less pressure on the outside but a bit more on the center punch, and slightly increased the finishing die.  Problem solved and I have shot these shells in 7 different 20's with no discernable difference in any of them. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	As an aside, last year I loaded some new gun clubs with 3/4 oz loads so I could easily tell them apart from 7/8 oz loads. The plastic on the newer gun clubs was so stiff that the press handle pressure was so excessive I gave up after a few hundred rounds. Then I tried the Field/Clay hulls and found them to be nearly identical to the STS in crimp quality, longevity, and interior volume. I've loaded quite a few 3/4 oz loads with the CB1075-20 wad and they work beautifully. No press adjustments required.  | 
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		#16 | ||||||
 
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			I'm no fan of the STS 28ga hull. The end frosts after firing and case life is crap. For me the old AA hull is superior and fortunately I have lots of them. Using the correct new HS wad helps in that hull and IMHO it 's a better hull than the STS.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
	There is no hunting like the hunting of man, and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never care for anything else thereafter...Earnest Hemingway  | 
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Rich Anderson For Your Post: | 
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		#17 | ||||||
 
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			Gary thanks so much for the tip I will give it a try.Craig Larter
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#18 | ||||||
 
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			Many guys may not have a tapered reamer. Just select a drill bit that goes in the primer hole, around 15/64,  and you can cut the plastic out. I did it about 10 years ago on 28ga and it worked great. I've never had the problem with 20 or 12ga Remingtons.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
	Paul Harm  | 
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		#19 | ||||||
 
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			Just finished 50 it’s quick work with a reamer. I used a pin gage to check & make sure I did not over open.  Load them tomorrow & test them in my Trojan  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	Will see William  | 
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| Best 20 Ga. Hull | 
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		#20 | ||||||
 
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			Have any of you 20 Ga. Reloader's  tried the Remington Hull with the yellow Plastic base wad?? I did load up some of these hulls couple of weeks ago and they did what I wanted done. ((Field Loads)) I found that the Federal wad is larger in diameter than some of the other wads, and worked well. The loads shot very well, clean burning and good velocity. I most likely load at higher pressures than some of you, but the hulls held up good. No Primer issues, Crimps were 6 point, and I loaded them four or five times working up a load. I think I may like these hulls. Just a thought  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	    David
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