Parker Double Repair question

[RHanlin]

Originally Posted by Chris Travinski

You have to admire a guy for trying! I'm not a gunsmith, but there are many types of flux, sounds like you need to find the right one. Might want to call Brownell's and ask what they would recommend. I hope you have success!

Thanks Chris... I'll call Brownells in the morning. You're probably correct that I might be using the wrong flux. However it is the type that was suggested for the type of silver solder I'm using. BUT, that's not saying much given the problems I am having.

[RHanlin]

Originally Posted by Brian Dudley

Re-attaching a forend loop is pretty straight forward for someone who knows what they are doing.

If the solder is just beading up and not flowing in then it sounds like flux is not being used or not the correct flux.

Bear in mind that after this repair is properly completed, a re-bluing of the barrels may very likely be needed. Maybe not, but often it is.

Thank you !!

Your response is exactly what I was looking for! I've done some work before using silver solder and the flux I used then is the same I tried using here. I'll post some pictures tomorrow of the products I'm using. Thanks again for you help Brian.

[Tom]

Just a thought
You need to do your homework on soldering. You are definitely using the wrong flux.
I'm all for jumping in and trying something new or challenging that's pretty much how I learn, but I must say I only do it on my own guns that way if I mess it up it's my problem.
Good luck with your project, Tom

[Bruce Day]

Out here in Fly Over country we just use Liquid Nails on the few old beater Parkers we are able to get.

[Mark Beasland]

Originally Posted by Robert Hanlin

Please forgive me if this has already been addressed in the past "but".... I've got a Parker Double that the locking lug fell out of. It's the piece the forend locks into when re-installed. It appears that this piece was soldered in place but I am having trouble getting solder to flow back even after cleaning all of the surfaces. I'm putting the heat on the same side as the lug but the solder just beads and runs off. I was afraid of applying too much heat but it looks like the beading might be an issue of not enough heat on the area I'm trying to re-solder.

Am I right? Is there a better technique to this repair?

Thanks

You may want to check out Dennis Potter's double gun class or my vintage barrel restoration class.

http://nra.trinidadstate.edu/pdf/2015NRA.pdf

[John Cinkoske]

Are the forend lugs generally silver soldered in place? In my limited experience I have found them soft soldered. Your mileage may vary...

[High Brass]

John has a point. You say "silver solder" . Silver solder is high temp stuff and not correct. A low temp alloy of tin should probably be used. Do some more research and get some advice from gunsmiths who do this type of work. It would bad for your reputation if you trash a set of Parker barrels.

[RHanlin]

Originally Posted by George Stanton

John has a point. You say "silver solder" . Silver solder is high temp stuff and not correct. A low temp alloy of tin should probably be used. Do some more research and get some advice from gunsmiths who do this type of work. It would bad for your reputation if you trash a set of Parker barrels.

I am not using silver solder... I know I said that in the beginning but I've read enough and heard enough to put that away. I have also contacted another gunsmith and will be getting with him shortly to be shown how to do this type of work.

[B. Dudley]

The lugs are NOT silver soldered. They are Wolff soldered using the same solder as the ribs. If you are trying to beat it to the point of getting silver solder to melt, then you have surely discolored he metal to the point of needing re-bluing. And possibly compromised the ribs. But this would not be an issue if they were properly clamped to prevent movement.

[Autumn Daze]

Okay educate me. And Wolff solder is?