Super glue in wood stocks?

[William Davis]

I use a lot of superglue wood turning. You can take "splated" wood with worm holes and fill so it won't come apart when turned. Interesting patterns when finished. Wood that crumbles in your hand can be solidified.

However when we apply the superglue we turn down for a fresh finish outside. Gunstocks trying to save original finish it's not a good choice. Seeps through spots you did not expect and impossible to remove.

Recently thought I could get away with it on a Hunter Arms forearm that pulled the screws out. Drilled punky wood out and superglued plug to hold better. Superglue found a very small crack leeched through to the outside. Now it has a ugly drip in the checkering. Only cure is a full refinish and checker.

So it depends on the job. Good stuff in the right spot.

William

[charlie cleveland]

if youre gun stock is a shooter grade stock and you shoot lots of heavy loads the super glue will help from starting new cracks and old ones from running and re opening...it works for me...charlie

[Bruce Day]

Sperm whale oil is indeed difficult to get out and defies easy combination with solvents. Dennis Smith ( The Stockmaker) had that problem with this C. A new finish will not adhere until the old oil is out, and it will take months with sperm whale oil.

Many refinishers, professional and amateur, use a dilute solution of isocyanide glue ( Superglue) to seal the inside of a stock head. If full strength, it will be too thick and may cause fit difficulties. I don't, instead using grease, not oil, on an action. Grease better stays put without running like oil.

[King Cobb]

I am actually surprised to hear that Bruce. I had never even heard of greasing a gun until I got my 1911, best baby shower gift ever, but everyone in your part of the world swore that in your area grease would gum up when it got cold. I have used rem oil on shotguns for ever and would have never considered using grease on a shotgun action....

[King Cobb]

BTW, I am fairly confident mine isn't whale oil, just some stuborn oil up in the head of the stock that hasn't all come out yet.

[Kevin McCormack]

The primary drawback to using grease on an action is that it can and will trap any small particles of dirt, grit, unburnt powder and the like, effectively creating a lapping compound-like paste that if not removed can act very similar to a grinding compound on sensitive bearing surfaces and joints.

[Bruce Day]

I use Pro-Shot Pro Gold grease. Not a lot, just a little on the hinge surfaces. I wipe it off at the end of the day so that any dust does not accumulate in the grease for very long. Rag and q tip.

I have hunted at down to -6 F without gun difficulties. Me yes, the gun no. I just think oil runs, maybe if only a very small amount was used, it would be fine, but people tend to squirt oil into the action. Everybody has their way.

[King Cobb]

Yes oil does have a tendency to run. Rem Oil isn't so bad. Now when I have gone hog hunting with the boys back home and they all break out their milspec gun oil for the ARs you have to spend half the hunt wiping oil off their guns as it comes out everywhere.

[Richard Flanders]

I never use grease on the inside of a gun but I'm sure there are greases that work. I use Ballistol which sticks like a very thin grease and never seems to harden up badly or run off. I hose Parker actions with it then let them drip dry before assembly. As for stocks, I use Mini-Wax wood hardener on punky inletting. It works very well. It's essentially a poor mans PEG treatment and similar to a super glue soaking. I've also used super glue to repair a lot of seriously smashed violin tops and backs and it works great. Much quicker than waiting for Tite Bond or hide glue to dry and holds very well. It's great for putting the small chips you get when you pull a tight tang or something out back in place; just put in a drop and the chip/splinter and hold it in place with a toothpick till dry. Model airplane builders use super glue on their balsa frames. Super glue comes in a variety of viscosities and I'm sure the thinner varieties would soak into a stock very well. Any supplier that supplies the jewelry industry or fossil preservation folks has super glue in bottles of at least a quart. I'll always prefer the wood hardner. It stabilizes punky wood. I've used it on violin and other stringed instrument fingerboards that had gotten punky from sweaty hands over long use. I apply it with a q-tip or small brush. I've mentioned this stuff on the forum a number of times and have never gotten any comments from anyone. Once you've tried it you'll never go back to anything else. It's a specialty product made specifically for stabilizing punky wood and is the best I've used for that. It soaks in better than super glue.

[Big D]

Richard - Sounds similar to "Get Rot" an epoxy product from the Gougeon Brothers in Bay City, MI. It's used to stabilize rotted areas in boats