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Thanks Dave-Another "gem" for the info bank here--
Unread 01-15-2010, 08:22 AM   #11
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Default Thanks Dave-Another "gem" for the info bank here--

[QUOTE=Dave Suponski;11228]Francis,In the interest of correct information.All Parker hammerless guns have coil spring mainsprings.The leaf spring was only used on the top lever until the change took place to the coil spring for the top lever.

Leaf spring main springs were used on Parker hammerguns untill the end of hammergun production.[-- Dave, was I correct in stating the earlier Parkers, like my two, were the 18 piece King design action, the later post 1917 (aprox) were the Hayes revision?-- I read that years ago in the Peter Johnson Parker book, written aprox. 1960 era- and have come to learn that since then, way more accurate information about our beloved Parkers has come to light--

It sure will be easier to replace the Parker top lever leaf spring than doing same in the main spring in a Smith- I wonder if they staked the locator pin at the rear apex, or if not, how they secured it--So much to learn-- Thanks again
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Unread 01-15-2010, 08:27 AM   #12
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Francis,Yes your guns would be the King design.
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Unread 01-15-2010, 09:12 AM   #13
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Good morning. Coffee brewing, no hint of sunrise yet.

I have no experience with single selective triggers. I find it interesting that Galen says that both hammers won't drop, so whatever is going on it is affecting boh sides equally, which makes me think a complete tear down, thorough cleaning and reassembly might be all that is needed. Seems unlikely to have a double set of broken parts but rust/crud seized parts on both sides is not hard to imagine.

Dave answered the second question.

In the interest of correct terminology, what I refered to as "piston cup" is properly known as the "mainspring plunger" (part 5 on the technical info tab).

Coffee's ready.

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Coffee is ready- sounds great
Unread 01-15-2010, 10:59 AM   #14
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Default Coffee is ready- sounds great

[QUOTE=Jack Cronkhite;11233]Good morning. Coffee brewing, no hint of sunrise yet.

I have no experience with single selective triggers. I find it interesting that Galen says that both hammers won't drop, so whatever is going on it is affecting boh sides equally, which makes me think a complete tear down, thorough cleaning and reassembly might be all that is needed. Seems unlikely to have a double set of broken parts but rust/crud seized parts on both sides is not hard to imagine.

Dave answered the second question.

In the interest of correct terminology, what I refered to as "piston cup" is properly known as the "mainspring plunger" (part 5 on the technical info tab).

Coffee's ready.

Some of the brew we had in the mess halls back when- you could use the left-over amount in those big vats at the Base Armory and it would strip cosmoline off a M-1 Garand in a heartbeat-- I'll bring the Bailey's Irish Creme if you are pourin'--
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Unread 01-15-2010, 11:32 AM   #15
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Hello Galen; First let me say ,the majority of these guys are far more savvy than I ,about working on their Parkers ,I have a good friend that lives near by and I recruit him when I have a problem ! With that said , I had the same problem with a GH grade 20 Ga. on the outside everything appeared normal and when you opened the gun to cock it ,it sounded as if the gun cocked ,but the trigger wouldn't drop the hammer ,ended up when we opened up the gun the sear spring was broken on the left side and the hammer wasn't cocking ,that would be part # 7 on our Tech Info page ,as Jack said odd that both sides don't function ,but as full of gunk and rust ,and as long as my gun had sat without being opened and cocked ,it is a miracle both of my springs weren't broken the first time I tried to cock the gun ! This would be considered an easy fix by most ,but let me say ,if you have never seen a Parker taken down before at least a few times ,you will do well to have an experienced smith at hand !Also if this is the problem ,I had to have a gentleman make the sear springs for me as they are nearly impossible to find ! Good luck with your gun !
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Unread 01-15-2010, 11:35 AM   #16
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Francis: Now that's a good deal. I would always pour coffee for someone bringing the Bailey's. This pot is gone but another is easily brewed.
Sun did rise. Love that time when the light begins to glow and the pinks and blues start showing. The whir and whistle of wings overhead. Anticipation........ oops, slipped into another world for a moment.
The "itis" is getting bad again. Found a Trojan on the net that is calling me. I'm sure I can quit anytime, but why bother.

Cheers,
Jack
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Unread 01-15-2010, 11:52 AM   #17
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Jack,I like the way you think.....
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A Trojan- what gauge and specs.??
Unread 01-15-2010, 11:56 AM   #18
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Default A Trojan- what gauge and specs.??

I had two older series Trojan 12's- std DT-and the small doll's head- a tad more drop than I like, but I worked around=- both dropped a lot of Roosters and a few mallards for me (before steel shot laws)-- I just looked seriously at a 16 Trojan this week- 28" barrels size 1 frame (std. I believe) and serial no. aprox 1929 mfg. it did NOT have the small doll's head rib extension, it was the later flat breech faced version (like on the M21)--

I'm really not a 16 man-love the 12's, but with the later stock dims-I could just see a few bobwhite quail dropped to a well placed shot over a fine Pointer or Setter- I ended up with the PH 16- 26" Twist barrels- I bought it (for quite abit less than the Trojan was listed for) as the top lever spring was broken- and the shop selling it on consignment had listed it as a Parker Trojan 16 with Unsafe to Shoot barrels- my good luck, as I have learned so much about those barrels and Parkers from this PGCA website-

The clincher, besides the unmarred screws and DHBP was the beautiful flame grained walnit and the unmarred or uncut stock- it is also on the O frame- and I may have access to a set of 28" 20 Vulcan extractor barrels on the O frame- that's a "down the road" option- always great to have a Winter bench project or two- isn't it?? Best--
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Unread 01-15-2010, 12:09 PM   #19
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Thanks, guys. The rear trigger base does come up flush with the plate. After reading your comments, I will find a competent gunsmith to look into it. I do know that the gun had not been used in 40-50 years, so the action may very well be full of gook - hopefully not rust.

I really appreciate all the helpful comments that have been posted on this thread.
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Unread 01-15-2010, 12:58 PM   #20
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Galen: Let us know the outcome. As always, we enjoy seeing pictures.
Francis: What I know so far is it is 12 gauge 2 3/4", with 28" barrels and a case. It has been refinished with a new stock. Most important, it fits my fun money budget. It will be a huntin' gun as are all my guns. I like to be the guy who adds handling marks so later others can wonder about the hunts the old gun they just found has been on. If only they could talk....

Cheers, Jack
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