Thoughts on this...

[Walt Kowalski]

Thanks all! I will take the forend metal out for a good look and cleaning and check for barrel contact with the wood as well. Will keep you posted on what I find.

[gman]

Curious as to how all this worked out? I love my repo but wished the forend latch would snap a little crisper. Seems a bit mushy on hot humid days suggesting the wood may be a little tight.

[Walt Kowalski]

Originally Posted by Eric Grims

Curious as to how all this worked out? I love my repo but wished the forend latch would snap a little crisper. Seems a bit mushy on hot humid days suggesting the wood may be a little tight.

Haven't fired it again since I cleaned it up...too HOT and a busy summer to boot.
When the leaves start to fall and it gets a bit cooler, then I'll head back to the range to shoot some clays again.

Got a new clay throwing device to try out too...(one of those cheapo ones that sits on the ground and you pull a string to throw the pigeons...)

[gman]

I have one of those throwers. Mounted it on an old tire and works well.
Good luck with the forfend!

[gman]

Walt
The forearm lever on my repro does not stay seated after a few rounds and starts to open outward. Forearm stays on but the lever comes out about a 1/16th of an inch at most. Caught my glove on it and gun came apart with ejectors set etc and had to finesse it back together. I had the good fortune to speak with a SxS gunsmith in Woodstock Vt. Who said it was a common problem with the forearem lug being angled needing adjustment and no problem to fix- no soldering etc. the problem does result in forearms coming off when the gun is fired on some guns. I was relieved and will drop my gun off to him this week
Good luck

[Walt Kowalski]

Originally Posted by Eric Grims

Walt
The forearm lever on my repro does not stay seated after a few rounds and starts to open outward. Forearm stays on but the lever comes out about a 1/16th of an inch at most. Caught my glove on it and gun came apart with ejectors set etc and had to finesse it back together. I had the good fortune to speak with a SxS gunsmith in Woodstock Vt. Who said it was a common problem with the forearem lug being angled needing adjustment and no problem to fix- no soldering etc. the problem does result in forearms coming off when the gun is fired on some guns. I was relieved and will drop my gun off to him this week
Good luck

That's good to know...thanks, and let us know how it turned out and how much it cost!

[Bruce Day]

1. The one piece barrel lug with the tapered back end is necessary for use with beavertail forends. Otherwise, with a square back end lug, there is a tendency for the solder to loosen and the forend will come off during shooting, particularly when bearing the weight of the beavertail forend. Repros all had the one piece lug, whether beavertail or splinter forend. The pictured lug looks normal.

2. Repros and Ilion made Rem original Parkers have a moisture weep hole through the bottom rib adjacent the barrel lug. It was left unplugged. See TPS for photos.

3. Suggest you partially disassemble the forend mechanism by removing it from the wood. The latch parts should be apparent without further taking apart the ejectors . See that the latch parts move normally and that the ejector hammers seat normally . Suggest you thoroughly clean the mechanism with Rem Action Cleaner and then sparingly put drops of gun action grease on the moving parts.

4. I have seen suggestions here that carb cleaner is as good as Rem Action Cleaner. While I have not tested it, I was informed by Babe Del Grego that they do not recommend carb cleaner because of a tendency to migrate and carry gunk, and then to solidify, whereas Rem cleaner does not. As a result, I use gun specific formulated Rem Action Cleaner and it has worked well for me. I have also seen recommendations to oil the action parts. In my opinion, oiling the the double trigger parts and very sparingly oiling the single trigger parts when assembling is correct , but after that, light gun grease is superior to oil because oil migrates and grease stays. Excessive grease will collect crud, so keep it light. I always grease the locking bite where the bolt fits and the hinge surfaces, then wipe off the grease when cleaning after use.

Photos on request.

[Steve Kleist]

Walt/Ron,
I am NOT a gunsmith, stocksmith, nor Parker Repro expert....however I have had a few experiences that just might help you.
I own several Parker Repros and shoot them often. Years back I bought a 12 ga Parker Repro Magnum with screw in chokes for hunting and shooting skeet. It originally came with a splinter forend, which I do not like. I bought a rough cut inletted beavertail forend. This required considerable fitting on my part. I carefully adjusted the latch mechanism a little at a time until it fit. At first it did not fit because the latch could not correctly engage the barrel lug completely and it too came off when shooting. By trial and error I raised the forend latching mechanism with thin shims and/or sanded away any wood that was bearing on the barrels keeping the latching mechanism from engaging completely. REMEMBER I am NOT a gunsmith.
As a simple experiment you could put a piece of carbon paper between the forend and barrels and latch the forend on to see if the wood on the forend is keeping the latch from completely engaging. If this is the case, a little judicious sanding might solve the problem. (At this point I expect a little scolding from the forum and advice about resale value.)
This is not expert advice....remember I am NOT a gunsmith..just some guy with a camo cap who has had the same problems as you.
Good luck.
Steve Kleist Ely, MN

[Autumn Daze]

Not sure if your Repro is a single trigger gun or not but I have been told by Delgrego, Abe Chaber and Ken Waite(Miller Triggers) do not lubricate a single trigger at all.

[ch]

Bruce is right. He greased up my ol 10 and it was far smother than the oil I had on it. I'm a greaser now.