Split Stock Repair (Pics)

[VH20]

If you want to understand why Parker stocks split, take a look here (see pointer) at the thin outline, a little less than 1/8 in. wide around the outer border of the stock face. That is where the majority of contact between receiver and wood occurs - that little tiny bit of surface area is what supports most of the force of recoil. There is also a section in the center, but it has been my observation that the factory stockers usually didn't get as good wood-to-metal contact there because it isn't visible when the gun is assembled (I make this statement based on the observation that the thickness of the epoxy is usually a few thousandths greater in the center area than around the edges when a bedding job is examined). Consider that small area to distribute recoil force over, then concentrate it on the very outer edges of the stock which tends to create a spreading force, then remember that the rear of the top tang is shaped like a wedge and is being driven into the wrist under recoil, and it is a wonder that all of them don't split (and all of them don't). As good as the factory stockers were, it isn't humanly possible to get a 100% perfect wood-to-metal contact over the entire area where they meet. This means that recoil force is concentrated at pressure-points where wood and metal meet the tightest, and not over the other available surface area where the fit isn't as tight. Eventually the receiver will "set-back", or sink into the wood with repeated use as recoil crushes the wood fibers in the pressure-point areas. As the receiver sets back, the tang is driven into the wrist even further. The glass-bedding ensures that 100% of the surface area available for wood-to-metal contact is completely filled tightly. As a result, recoil force is evenly distributed over the widest possible surface area, and pressure points are eliminated. In addition, the epoxy is much harder than the wood, and receiver set-back is greatly reduced:[IMG][/IMG]

[VH20]

Here is the center section of the stock face that is in contact with the receiver. As stated before, it has been my observation that the factory wood-to-metal fit often isn't as tight here, as evidenced by a slightly thicker (a few thousandths) layer of epoxy being observed here when a bedding job is completed. I'm not saying they didn't have any contact, just maybe not quite as good as around the outer edges, and not necessarily on every gun. There is also a very small thin area in contact with the receiver around the edges of the center, square-shaped inletting that is provided for the bolt to retract when the gun is opened (see the shiny areas around the square inletting in the center). Glass-bedding takes advantage of all available surface area to distribute recoil force over.
I should mention here that the rough, bubbly appearance of the bedded areas is due to the fact that the release agent is still partially adhered to these areas. The underlying epoxy is nearly as smooth as a milled surface, but the thin layer of release agent still stuck to it makes it look rough under this magnification. The release agent will be all removed before final assembly.
:[IMG][/IMG]

(I should take another photo with the back of the receiver paired next to the bedded stock for a better visual of the available surface area for contact - I'll try to do that).

[VH20]

Don't forget to put release agent on the small part of the trigger plate that comes in contact with the wood when assembled (I have, but remembered before I tried to assemble it to the stock which had the epoxy already applied.) To forget could lead to a stuck triggerplate. Here's the release agent being removed from the mentioned area:[IMG][/IMG]

[VH20]

OK, here's a quickly-taken, poorly-focused shot comparing the back of the frame to the stock. It makes it apparent where the areas of wood-to-metal contact are (at least the available areas for contact). Keep in mind that much of that metal in the center may not actually be in 100% tight contact if it hasn't been bedded - something to think of when you shoot heavy loads with heavy recoil. On the plus side, this small amount of contact area is huge compared to a lot of sidelocks! The next step will be to clean up all the release agent still stuck to the epoxy, and sand/grind away the flashing where the epoxy has been squeezed out. More later: [IMG][/IMG]