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#3 | ||||||
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That did the trick. I was able to remove the screw and ease the barrels off, and then reinstall the screw, with no loss of the spring.
Now, I've got the unit apart and trying to figure out the best way to clean out all of the grime. Ultrasonic cleaner? Brake clean? PB Blaster? Let it soak in Dawn dishwashing liquid? This is going to take a little time. As for the stock, I am speaking with someone now about making a replacement stock since that one is packed full of JB Weld and has some weak spots in it. Thanks for all the help! |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Chris Wren For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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After initial scrub with a stiff nylon brush to get the loose crap, use boiling water. Boil the disassembled frame and all your small parts for 30-45min. in clean water. If your tap water has high mineral content, use distilled water (grocery store). 2 things will happen 1) all the old dried lubricants that have cemented with dust/powder residue, etc. will loosen from the metal and be easily brushed away. 2) any active rust on the metal will be converted to bluing. Might take a couple iterations of scrubbing and boiling to get it all, depending on how much rust there is and how deep it is. When it comes out of the boil, let dry and brush off the loose oxide with 0000 steel wool. If you still had colorful case hardening intact, I would be more cautious in my recommendation. But this does not seem to be the case. When you are done, it will still look its proper age, but look well cared for throughout its years rather than neglected. Take a look at my lewis project for what to expect from boiling. There was beautiful twist steel barrels hiding under what looked like an unrecoverable brick of red rust. I did no refinishing at all, just boiling. For the frame, I soaked in evaporust, which also removes any trace of finish, because I have a plan for refinishing it completely.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Samuel Gross For Your Post: |
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When you are all done, use a good water displacing oil. anything with rust inhibitors in it will ruin all your hard work, as the finish is quite delicate in this dry state. I have found that plain kerosene is the absolute best. Dunk your parts, or brush on liberally for a barrel and let it set for for an hour or so. Following this use clean oil (again no detergents or rust inhibitors) for your first oiling. After this initial oiling the finish is "set" and you can use whatever gun oil you like or prefer for normal maintenance down the road. Your frame looks like it has been refinished before. You can preserve its current weathered look and "patina" with the above boiling. If it looks too neglected, you can bring up the finish just a touch with a single careful iteration of rust bluing to make the weathering and age look more uniform, without taking away aged appearance. |
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Ejector Trojan | ![]() |
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#7 | ||||||
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Let's get back to this little comment that was overlooked; "The breach opens, and ejects shells,"
Now, did you really mean to say that the shells acutally ejected out of this Trojan or did they just lift so you could grab them? ![]() |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Larry Stauch For Your Post: |
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The dummy shell I used would seat, and when the barrels were opened, the shell was extended out where I could remove it. The shell did not "pop" or "fly" out. My comment was made to say the mechanism that moved the shell was operational.
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Chris Wren For Your Post: |
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#9 | ||||||
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Are you related to Chris Wren, the architect?
I think he specialized in churches. |
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#10 | ||||||
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Sinking money into a replacement stock would be financial suicide. Maybe look around for a used stock and have it fitted. Also, I would never put the parts in any water. I usually use a Dremmel tool with a bronze wire wheel at low speed to get junk out of an action, once the floor plate and easily accessible parts are disassembled. Also, no steel wool. Frontier 45 pad for cleaning anything metal on the outside.
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Jerry Harlow For Your Post: |
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removing barrels, teardown |
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