Chamber Gauge ?

[Dan]

That answers my question, sounds like you take that new hull, mark it with a pen and you have a CSMC chamber gauge.

[ArtS]

Originally Posted by Daniel B Sweet

That answers my question, sounds like you take that new hull, mark it with a pen and you have a CSMC chamber gauge.

Actually, you take a new hull, mark it as measured from the front and you have a form of Brownell's gauge. They need to be measured from the front and measure to the breech. Most plastic hulls are short so they need to be marked to proper length. On a Brownell's gauge the marks are to the rear. This has been a confusing thread. The question was about chamber gauges and probably 2/3's of the posts are about choke gauges. All interspersed.

I bought a set of the Brownell gauges 25 or 30 years ago and they are absolutely the best I have ever seen. They are made, by my measurements, to the exact specs. I have measured a lot of European guns that wouldn't measure to spec, and some of those suffered from tight fit or sticky extraction when used. Note that they almost all would take a new hull with no effort. An emppty hull has enough give so that it will enter a tight chamber yet stick when loaded. I have used some quality brass shells as gauges and a few times in a pinch a new plastic shell. The best method, and it is a compromise, is to use a new long (3 or 3.5") hull and cut it to exact length. Most new plastic hulls are undersized to some extent but will work in a pinch. Fired hulls of all kinds are useless.

I wish someone like Wheeler will pick the business up and make them available.

[Doug Powell]

Do you think this is accurate (enough)? I went through my socket set and found the widest one that would fit in the barrels. Attached an extension to make it longer, slid it in, made a sharpie mark on the extension where the edge of the barrel was, and measured it. I got 2 7/8”, so I should be safe to shoot with a 2 3/4 shell? Make sense? I guess you could also drop a 3” shell in and if <=1/4” is still sticking out….