Best Method of Marking Hulls?

[Double Lab]

I color code the primers with various color Sharpies. Color them while still in the package/tray, then create a legend to identify color with load data.

[10 bore]

i use different color hulls, red winchester aa are 1 1/4 oz bismuth 4s, siliver winchester aa are 6s, i have green gun club and a black rem hull to use for other size shot. i mostly shoot 4s in the 12 ga and 7/8 ths oz 6s in the 20 ga

[Keith Doty]

I assign a lot number to each reload using the date of the original loading. The boxes get the lot number, gauge, length, shot weight, and size. Basically what info is on a box of factory shells and the lot number references me back to the "book" I keep with every reload, good or bad, I've loaded in the last many, many years. All segregated by gauge. I NEVER leave orphan shells out, always return them to the box even if there are only a handfull ( or even 1) that didn't get fired. This has kept me out of trouble since high school days and my first 20 ga. loader 50+ years ago!

[Mike of the Mountain]

I color code primers like Daryl does. If I need more info I just write it on the hull with a sharpie and add info onto any label I stick on the boxes when I place the reloads into them.

[J. A. EARLY]

Waterfowl shells: seal the primers with cheap fingernail polish. Blue for steel, red for hevi-shot. Then the hulls are marked with a sharpie for shot size. Even mark factory shells about three times each with a sharpie since poor markings come off.

Buckshot: Yellow or White marking pen.

Bird shot: Black hulls 9s, Red hulls 8 or 8.5, Green hulls 7.5, High brass hulls of any color, marked with a sharpie for 6 or larger.

Placed in a used cardboard shell box with printing label on top marked as to the load.

In MTM 100 boxes blue painters tape marked and placed on top for each 25 section as to weight of charge and size.