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03-05-2022, 11:32 AM | #3 | |||||||
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The drawback with the Magtech at shotgun pressures as you note is the short powder charge length. These hulls have a much stronger, thicker head design that doesn't require a base wad addition. It is flat on the inside They also have thicker walls so there is no need to use oversized wads when lading. Standard to bore plastic designed for straight sided hulls all work perfectly. I have shot a few stiff loads in them and they continue to fit every gun of that gauge I have. I consider them a good investment for the long haul. -------Quick Edit------------- Need to clarify something. The hulls will accept a gauge larger wad but very tightly. The plastic wads or obturators fit well but not extremely tightly. I have had no problem with the function of the bore size plastic but use oversize card wads with BP to insure a really tight seal. The Magtechs are so thin that you have no option and are limited for smokeless. |
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03-05-2022, 12:45 PM | #4 | ||||||
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This could get me in some trouble(adding to my Parker collection trouble)...
I have these shells in 10 and 12 gauge in varying lengths. The 10ga. 2 5/8" are great for the short chambered early 10 gauge lifters and really a must have for them in my opinion. I also use the 2 7/8' 10s in my top action guns and was able to stuff 4 drams of 2f black powder and 1 7/8 of bismuth BBs(by volume) for a successful Tundra Swan hunt. The 12s are great as well and I have those in 2 1/2" and 2 5/8". A significant step up from Magtech shells and they say Parker on them! I usually use black powder with these shells though I know someone who uses the the 19gr Red Dot and 1 1/8oz. recipe in there 10 gauge hammer gun without issue. To me this is like buying a "Yeti" cooler or mug. There is some sticker shock, but once you have it you appreciate the quality. Do 8 gauge lifters and top-actions have the same chamber length? I will probably buy 25 of these shells just to have them, though I don't have an 8 gauge gun yet. Ideally I would like a 8 gauge lifter, but wouldn't turn down a nice top action gun either. This is going to sound like a strange way to back into a gun, but a year or so ago, I bought(and really paid too much) for what I thought was Parker Bros. 10 gauge capper. It turned out to be an 8 gauge capper. So now I get the shells and hopefully have the gun soon...sounds like a decent plan right? |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Jay Oliver For Your Post: |
03-05-2022, 01:53 PM | #5 | ||||||
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Jay, that's exactly the kind of logic that gets a lot of us in "trouble"! A man ends up with at least one room/basement/garage full of loading benches, gun safes, and supplies. Not saying there is anything wrong with all that BUT, a very slippery slope.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Keith Doty For Your Post: |
03-05-2022, 02:09 PM | #6 | ||||||
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You are right Keith and for some reason I like the story that could come out of this...
I will add, I also like these shells as it would let me get into shooting an 8 gauge without having to buy a press/reloaders. These shells can be loaded with had tools. I would likely shoot black powder in these shells in my "to be obtained" 8 gauge hammer gun. Though I might experiment with smokeless. As long as the shells are being used in the same gun there shouldn't be a need to resize the shells. I look at it like someone who bought a Parker hammer gun new and bought some brass shells to go with it. Those shells are going to last a awhile... |
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03-05-2022, 06:08 PM | #7 | |||||||
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Turned out to be a good move. You can buy 12 gauge and down shell holders for regular presses and either tuse the press arm or an RCBS Benc Automatic priming tool to prime brass cases.Bigger than 12 is a real problem. The instructions to insert and press down on a smooth surface is way over rated. It usually takes about 6 tries a case to get it inserted far enough and square enough to get this done without the primer falling out. Since the case stays upside down with these tools you simply open the tool, drop in the case, lay the primer on the seat and press it in. Works as slick as can be. You need the tool, a case size dowel, a second dowel with a pin or better a cut off depriming punch from an old die epoxied into a second dowel and a piece of hard wood with a base recess and a primer hole bored. You can get in the 8 gauge or 10 gauge business for $50. If shooting plastic 10 gauge 2-5/8, look up my post where you can use a a $70 12 gauge Lee Load All with the use of a couple of big washers as spacers as long as you roll crimp or use overshot wads glued in. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Arthur Shaffer For Your Post: |
03-05-2022, 06:28 PM | #8 | ||||||
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I'd like to get a few to experiment with. I'd go smokeless and bismuth. That'll make the members in my duck lease howl! Most had never seen roll crimp shells before when I broke them out opening day several years ago.
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03-05-2022, 07:01 PM | #9 | ||||||
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I think I can use my press and sizing die to seat primers for the 8 gauge I was testing it with fired primers seems like it will work.
I can make a decapper with these wood dowels I found that measure almost exactly the diameter of the case inside. |
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03-05-2022, 07:40 PM | #10 | ||||||
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Wow, Jay! I have the parker primer tools in 10 ga and 12 ga, but have never seen one in
8 ga. That is quite a find! |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jeff Kuss For Your Post: |
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