All you do is remove 5/32" of hull and thereby produce the roll crimp without abusing the hull mouth to make a good looking finished product. I'm shortening my 16 gauge Remington Peters plastic hulls to 2 9/16" from 2 3/4" so I am not taking off a lot. Using the same load as when I fold crimp, the roll crimp loses just enough hull so the roll is neat. I use a Lyman Easy Shotshell Trimmer which has a collar on the mandrel that the mouth of the case goes against. The collar on the mandrel assures a consistent trim which is not based on the thickness of the base wad as the Ballistics Product case trimmer does. I have found not all paper base wads, as in some of the Peters Victor paper hull, are equal.
If you work with paper hulls, I recommend that you rewax the mouths of the cases to get a sharp cut from your hull trimmer. To help that process, I will put the rewaxed hulls in the refrigerator for a couple of hours before I trim them. If you don't rewax the mouths and the paper is soft the cut end is raggedy with resultant poor roll crimps. The Ballistics Product hull trimmer works better on paper hulls because the cut is made in a guillotine fashion rather than rolling the hull against a circular disk cutter. You roll the hull around on the nylon mandrel and use the razor blade in a chopping fashion rather than rolling the paper case against it. Same goes for the plastic case with the BP trimmer.
As to the previous finding about using the plumber's flaring tool to hold the hulls while roll crimping them, I also found that the tool is useful for holding the hull in the trimming process with the Lyman disk cutter. The occasional resharpening of the disk type cutter on the Lyman makes the job go faster, too. JF
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