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#3 | ||||||
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#4 | ||||||
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Cameron you took my advice literally on making the sliver a generous oversize. A fine saw will remove the excess in about 10 minutes. If the glue joint is ready, glue it. If you are using rubber bands to hold the sliver while the glue cures try the rubber bands before you glue. I think you may have to remove some of the excess in order for the rubber bands to help position the sliver.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Craig Budgeon For Your Post: |
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#5 | ||||||
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Craig, I am being quite literal until I am ready to glue. I made the generous sliver from a blank of 1/2" straight grain walnut and I will slice it into a few "slivers" giving me a few spares should I need them.
And I have yet another question. Bet you could see that coming. In gluing in the sliver do I angle it to match the 45 degree as in the photo or do I bevel the mating surface to keep the sliver upright (to the centerline of the forend)? Seems upright is correct to keep the grain direction correct. I am not clear on this aspect. |
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#6 | ||||||
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Glue it as pictured, you may be surprised at how well it matches the forend when it is all shaped and finish sand. Not all blanks are cut the same way at the mills.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Craig Budgeon For Your Post: |
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#7 | ||||||
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Thank you. Will do.
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#8 | ||||||
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Cameron Thraen For Your Post: |
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#10 | ||||||
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Never used either adhesive. I would choose the one that is clear if either one is.
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