Recut checkering on Parker forend

[Tom Flanigan]

Originally Posted by Cameron Thraen

Just thinking ahead. Any advice on using alkanet root as a stain on this Parker? I have read quite a lot on AR as a stain to get that red tone but I am not sure about using it on my 1893 Parker? I do not make my own of course but am aware that a product by S.B. McWilliams can be purchased on eBay. Looking for your advice. Thanks.

A note: On my project gun from last winter (Leftover G S#47216: Stock repair- yikes on the Double gun forum) I used Brownell's Pilkington spirit stain and then multiple hand rubbed coats of Velvit Oil. Turned out very satisfactory.

I use alkanat root oil that I made up years ago. I have a lifetime supply. I took alkanet roots from England and boiled them, on a stove, in linseed oil with Japan drier added. My method of finishing a stock using the alkanet oil is to fill all of the pores first and then wipe down with the alkanet oil and let dry for at least 24 hours. I do additional coats if necessary. I don't mix alkanet oil with the coats of final finish since, I believe, that it dulls the impact of the grain with multiple coats of finish. Putting alkanet oil on before the final finishing seems to work fine and the grain continues to stand out.

[B. Dudley]

Clear Stain?... How does that work?

[Cameron Thraen]

Brian, that is an oxymoron for certain. Good catch. Typed 'clear' when what I needed to type is Pilkington Spirit Stain. Sorry for the confusion. I like this stain when applied sparingly. Not sure it would be correct or right for my early Parker.

[Cameron Thraen]

Here are a few photos of the forend to display what I am working with on this project. Question? Should I finish the wood before tackling the checkering?

[Cameron Thraen]

Split cleaned, sealed and filled. This split is tight, not deep and does not reach the outside margin.

[B. Dudley]

In my mind actual stain should only be used to cover up patches of sap wood, or to blend a repair in or something like that. Or to match a butt to an existing forend, or visa versa.

The natural color of any wood cannot be beat.

I will use Alkenet root in my sealer coats to get a tint of color into the wood, but the difference is only slight.

[Cameron Thraen]

I believe I have achieved the reddish color tone match using the alkanet red oil. Practice wood from the same period 1890's above with three applications, original Parker stock finish below.

I tried BLO as the first application on the other side of the forend and that produced a color tone with too much brown.

[Cameron Thraen]

Next up, a divot repair along the left barrel border. Length is 20mm. Photo shows depth. I have used AcraGlas in the past. Open to new ideas and advice.

[Craig Budgeon]

Cameron, I do not do pictures. Brians right on stains unless you have cedar shingles on your home. That is a long divot and needs to be filled with closely matching wood not epoxy. The repair sliver should fit perfectly perhaps an 1 1/2" diameter sliver would work well. The exposed repair should have no sharp corners, only well fitted radiuses. Make sure grain direction is an exact match. Glue using instant clear glue, Its strong and the provides a very thin line. Secure with rubber bands while glue cures. Hide blemishes with artist oil paint and turpentine after final shaping.

[Craig Budgeon]

One other thing Cameron, leave the sliver a generous oversize. It only has to fit well with the original wood. Saws, files, and sandpaper will take care of final shaping.