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Unread 06-23-2020, 04:56 AM   #1
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Dean, what i described in post #13 was done by firing then opening and tripping the ejectors and then unlatching the fore end with out closing the barrels to re-cock them. I am fishing down the Cape and no guns to try it with.

If you do not try to help you will never make a mistake and you and many others here always go the extra mile to give the best you can. Thank you.
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Unread 06-23-2020, 06:18 AM   #2
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I’ve never tried it , but I think removing the fore end on an open Parker would be A, ill advised, and B, difficult.
Dean, I have had, and known others to have had one or both ejector hammers trip on removing the fore end, but this was a result of dirt, wear or both, in the sears.
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Unread 06-23-2020, 08:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgarspencer View Post
I’ve never tried it , but I think removing the fore end on an open Parker would be A, ill advised, and B, difficult.
Dean, I have had, and known others to have had one or both ejector hammers trip on removing the fore end, but this was a result of dirt, wear or both, in the sears.
Several years ago I had used my ultrasonic cleaner to clean up a Parker I had purchased.
When I reassembled I could not get the forend back on. It was only after a lot of frustration that verbal abuse of the Parker I realized the the ejectors had tripped.
With a lot more physical and verbal persuasion I cocked the ejectors and everything operated normally.

L.C. Smiths on the other hand have the ejector cocking mechanism in the frame assembly.
If you dry fire before removing the forend you will need to reset the ejectors ( they made a tool for this ) or you can use a small wrench as a lever to
Reset them.
Lots of L.C. Smith forend wood has been damaged by people attempting to reinstall the forend with the ejectors tripped.
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